QuestionWhen removing what was already an aftermarket stereo from my previously owned 1991 F150, I discovered that the stereo had been spliced in, meaning there was no wiring harness. Through manuals I have determined the wires as follows:
red- ground
yellow and black- power; from fuse 11
green and yellow- memory; from fuse 8
orange and black- LCD power; from mainlight switch
light blue and red- illuminating light; from fuse 10
white and green/orange and green-speakers
two black and white- speaker grounds
My question is, how much of this do I need to know when acqiring a harness for attaching a new stereo. I want to do this right, and I understand that there are a few ways to fudge this. Different harnesses, different mounting brackets
What kind of wiring harness do I need to hook up on the ends of all these wires?
AnswerKind of late for this idea!
Once they are cut they are much more trouble than it is worth to 'undo' the cuts.
Indeed, what you should do now is just wire it manually and tag the wires for future reference.
You will need a few things:
A 12v Test light.
A 'popper' battery (9v) and some speaker wire.
An installation Kit.
Additionally, you will need a dozen or more 'Bellcaps' crimp connectors to attach wires properly [and a crimper tool to fasten them]. ANYthing else, is not what I would use or suggest.
Details on how to use them are as follows.
INSTALLATION KIT:
You can find an installation kit at walmart for about
10$. This will let your deck fit the dash opening correctly. And generally, you should assemble this part 1st.
POWERING THE HEAD UNIT:
You will need a 12v test light (available at a parts store or radio shack, ect).
With that priceless tool grounded to the chassis, you should be able to determine 2 of the 3 main wires needed to power the head unit. Ground the clamp end of the test light to the cars' chassis and then probe wires with the other end.
1) MemoryWire:
12v Constant (tested wire always has 12v no matter what position the key is in. This is the one you will use to provide station preset memory power to ther head unit (possibly a yellow deck wire).
2) PowerWire:
12v Switched (That is, the tested wire only has 12v when the ignition is in the 'on' and 'acc' positions. This is the one that actually makes the deck power up. Possibly a red deck wire.
As to the ground:
You should simply run a short ground wire to the cars' chassis for circuit ground. Trying to find one in a factory harness is more trouble than it is worth for the novice (trust me). Likely a black deck wire [and it is
usualy long enough to make it to the chassis].
Now you have dealt with power, memory and ground.
Tag these so you know what they are in the future.
SPEAKER WIRE ID and Polarity:
(this should be done from the front where they hook to the deck).
The easiest way will be to use a 9v battery to 'pop' the speakers (only long enough to see whether they go IN or OUT of their frames) to see which lead is positive.
*Attach some wires to the battery of different lengths so it will not drain when not in use.
Now.. get into a position where you (or an assistant) can see either the back of [or the front of] the speaker being tested.
*Tap the extended battery leads to the speaker (for 1/4 sec or less) and watch the speaker. During this test, a functioning speaker should move one way, then return to its idle position.
If the speaker cone jumped/moved OUT of the frame (towards interior of vehicle)the POSITIVE lead on the battery is indeed hooked to the positive for the speaker. Viola!
If the speaker moved IN towards the interior, the NEGATIVE battery wire is indeed hooked to the positive side of the speaker.
Simple, and effective if you follow the instructions :)
By the way, I would have to see this in person to do what you are asking.
Sincerely,
J Mael
