QuestionQUESTION: Hello i have a 92 cadillac seville and two current codes still show after i cleared them which are I039 and A047 it also says service ride control? What do these mean and how do i fix them thanks.
ANSWER: Hello,
IO37 is the ride control and until you diagnose and repair the problem for the ride control, code will stay present.
I went that extra step and checked the web for your other code. Chck this site http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=1712
Sometimes codes cannot be reset through the use of the heater display too, requiring one to use an OTC scanner or equivalent.
These scanners used to go for thousands but are now found at flea markets, craigs and Ebay for under $100. The last year OBD I was used was 1993 and the new standard that is still used today is OBD II.
The old systems gave only a very general diagnoses, which made the use of the factory service manual much more accurate.
As a dealer tech, I was overjoyed to see the introduction of the OBD II, where a problem could actually be pin pointed!
The OBD I was used from 1980 1/2 to 1994. In other words, your computer system has long since been an antique! Very frustrating to deal with complicated by cascading codes that had nothing to do with the original problem. I hated having to ever work on the OBD I at the dealer, because not only was the system flawed, but so was the electronic scanners of the time we used for diagnostics.
As an example, a bad O2 sensor (13) would set of a map sensor fault (34), which would set off a ECM (55) because the engine was not running correctly. OBD II- a code 34 meant a bad map sensor circuit.
I no longer have code books for a vehicle that old, however, if you tried to eliminate the codes and they came back, that tells you they are hard codes and whatever is setting them off has to be addressed.
I recommend obtaining a factory service manual from Craig's list or eBay.
Not only can you address the code issue, but diagnose and repair just about everything on the car.
Ride control-very common issue.
First you need to make sure the compressor under the hood is functioning. If so, you need to check the air lines, shocks and fittings for leaks.
Easily done with soap water. If the shocks are bad and leaking, check after market for Monroe replacements.
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QUESTION: Hello again...thank you for that info..i have another problem just noticed that there is really thick green goo like stuff splattered all underneath my car what is this and how can i fix and what happens if i continue to drive as is
ANSWER: Hi,
As far as you driving the vehicle as is, I have no way of determinng as to what will happen, because I do not know what these green goo is.
What you need to do is look for the source from under the car. One thought that I have is where a CV front axle boot may be throwing out grease. If you look at the front axles under the car, you will see two rubber boots on each one. If one of these rubber boots is ripped, it will spray axle grease rearward.
In fact, if this goo is on the bottom f the vehicle, I can't think of anywhere else it could be coming from.
If it is a bad CV axle boot, you need to get replaced immediately! If the axle breaks, the car will no lnger move on its own power.
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QUESTION: Could that be why i hear that noise when i turn right
AnswerHello,
It certainly could be the noise you hear a h enough you turn right.
It is not real common to see ripped boots these days because the rubber quality is much better than in the 70's.
Back then, it was every common to see these boots degenerate, grease go oozing out and the little balls that held the joint together fall out and v the axle come apart.
The first ripped CV boots I ran across were on the 60s and 70s Olds Toranados and Eldorados. I guess I am dating myself with this answer---lol.
Sometimes when driving down the road you could pick up road debris ripping the boot, or if the axle assembly was replaced by an inferior aftermarket assembly, tis to could be the issue.
Years ago, we would replace the boot and the constant velocity joint. I don't even think that is done anymore and the axle assembly is replaced.
As for doing it yourself, specialty tools are needed and knowledge. It can be very dangerous for the inexperienced, because the vehicle needs to be suspended and the lower ball joint has to be separated. Even the nut for the hub, uses a large specialty socket. A press may be required to separate the axle from the hub.
The noise you would hear coming from the from the front may be a
Metallic clicking or rattle that may get louder with speed. You may also hear a clunk when you put the vehicle in drive or reverse.
I would suggest that you take the vehicle to a local service garage. (Never a dealer!).
Let me know the outcome. I would not suggest driving the car at highway speeds and try to get it looked at immediately. The.faster the car is going the faster that damaged axle is moving. If it lets go, even at city driving speeds, catastrophic damage can occur. It depends if the damaged cv is the inner or outer, but once the axle breaks it will be flopping around the front suspension.
Good luck!
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