QuestionOkay my car was losing RPM's and stalling after I drove for like an hour, checked the codes on the ECC gave code of 34, looked in the book it stated the ignition module for the transmission I think that was the name, well that part was replaced. now the car wants to rev when I go to stop like it wants to keep moving. So I checked for codes again, now the only Code coming up is 52, checked the ECM reset indicator that was fine but the 52 still shows. and then when I parked it the no charge light stayed on and drained the battery. I jumped the car and it spits and sputters and sounds horrible. the alternator seems to check out fine. does this mean the ECM needs to be replaced? and if so, how do I replace it. I cant afford to have the shop do it, because they have already drained my savings account, and I am disable and on a fixed income.
AnswerHello,
I can relate to the fixed income. Who checked the alternator? A part's house? If your no charge light is on, you have an alternator problem on that vintage. If the battery is not charging, all sorts of weird things will happen. I do not know what code 52 is, however I can explain many of the things you are running across, may all relate back to the charge. See, your computer (ECM, which is either at the right (passenger side) kick panel or under the passenger side dash. It is large and is silverish in color.
The ECM needs 10 volts constant power. If that power goes below 10 volts, the engine will surge. Easiest way to check to see if the alternator is putting out is to have the engine running an turn on the headlights. You should hear the typical GM alternator scream. If you don't, it's simply not charging. How good is the battery? Has it been load tested? If the battery is no good, it won't take and keep a charge.
Yours is a very simple system. The battery goes to the alternator. 2 field wires go into the alternator. You have wiring going to the charge indicator or light in the dash.
Get a cheap testlight for $3.00 and put it from negative to positive on the battery. You should see 13.2 volts at the battery. If not, you need a battery or an alternator. Check the positive lead for connection at the back of the alternator. make sure your connection is good at the battery posts.
I have never seen an ECM replace for a charging system on a 83' Cadillac. Not saying it isn't possible that the ECM is not the problem, but I have never seen that happen on a car that old.
The other concern is is the alternator putting out enough amperage, which too, would go back to a bad alternator. I don't trust parts stores. They are not technicians, commonly they don't use the testing equipment properly and all they want to do is sell parts.
You also need to check the gauge fuse. If the gauge fuse is blown, the car won't charge.
As I said, I understand about the disability thing, and if you really want to save a ton of cash reparing this car, I would highly suggest obtaining a factory service manual. It will walk you through all of this with flow charts. I have purchase them for as little as $30.00 through Ebay or craigs. Otherwise you are working it the dark, as am I without being at the car. The manual keeps you from wasting time an replacing good parts on a guess.
Let me know what it turns up being, but on a car that old, it was not as I remember sophisticated enough to control the alternator. That did not happen until the 90's if I remember right.
See, my concern is that if your code 52 if it means ECM, is just an after effect from the charging system. I know the running is after ECM does not see it's constant require 10 volts is compromise.
Does this say on the dash, service engine now?
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