QuestionQUESTION: This car will not crank. I have tested the starter I have tested the ignition switch (not the tumbler) I have also tested the neutral safety switch I have power on the yellow wire from the ign. switch through the first bulk head connector but then lose the yellow wire as it goes up behind the instrument panel. I have been seeing quite a few posts on here about the security systems. I Turned the key on pushed off and warmer on the climate control and 8.8.8 came up, then ..E, then E52, Then .7.0. I plan on going into the steering column tomorrow to check the wires going to the tumbler. but any assistance on what those codes mean or any Ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks,Todd
ANSWER: Hello,
If you never took one of these steering column apart. You will not physically find the break in the 2 small wires that run up and down the steering column.
The wires are very small and move every time you turn the ignition lock cylinder and break inside the insulation. You can insert an ohm meter lead at one contact inside the lock cylinder (contacts are immediately in the front of the lock cylinder). When the key is inserted the pellet on the key blade completes the resistance circuit to enable the engine to start.
Once a lead from the ohm meter is placed on one contact, the other lead goes under the dash at the connector at the bottom of the steering column (2 very thin white wires in orange sheath). You should get a reading touching one of the wires. If not, the wire is broken. Do the same with the other contact and the other wire. If a reading is present, the wire is good. If not, it’s broken.
These systems were not anti-theft but were anti-owner, commonly stranding the driver with a no-start situation.
No matter what, you need to bypass this system. Most likely the VATS is the problem. The absolute most common problem with starting on the VATS was the VATS.
Instead of testing the wires, no matter what, you need to bypass. Even if you install a new very over priced lock cylinder, you are guaranteed to have another failure down the line.
Commonly, I send people to alarm stores to have it bypassed. Included in every alarm with remote start is the VATS bypass kit which has 15 resistors. The resistor in the key blade is measured and the wires on the steering column side under the dash are cut. The other side of the wires are stripped and the correct resistor is installed in-line, causing the computer to think the correct key is used every time.
If you do this, you measure the key resistor. You are allowed 10% variation and you can get a resistor from radio shack to do the same thing.
Sometimes you can tilt the column in different positions and try starting the wires might go back together good enough to get the car running to take to alarm store.
This steering column can be defeated with a screw driver in 30 seconds. Very easy to steal car, especially with VATS bypassed.
Old cars are stolen all the time. In fact, reading Tulsa news, this was a brand new phenomenon to them and it hit headlines that old cars were stolen all the time. Fresno ran a like kind story.
You need to install a starter interrupt (starter kill) switch.
Get a toggle switch from a parts store. Using a test light, find the START wire coming from electrical ignition switch. Should be purple. Once you have your toggle, make a harness of two 3-4 feet long wires each. Use 10 or 12 gauge wire on it. Install wires to toggle. Using electrical tape, tape wires together creating a harness.
Cut the purple wire leading from electrical ignition switch under dash. Install each wire from toggle after wires are stripped to each end of the purple wire. Use yellow butt connectors. Then tape butt connectors to hold them in place once crimped and tight.
Use tie wraps and attach to harness under dash.
You can then run your new harness under the driver's side kick panel, under door sill and install under sill where toggle lever is sticking out.
You can drive car and flip switch while driving. It does not stall engine. It just won't start if you don't flip the switch back.
This is cheap easy protection and is highly recommended once VATS is bypassed.
Any problems, contact me at my website.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thank you soo much for the information, I did in fact pull the column apart and found the white wires about an inch from the tumbler severed quite possibly from the screw that holds the turn signal cam in place. I ohmed the key and will be heading to Radio Shack tomorrow for a resistor. Do you recommend soldiering it in place to prevent extra resistance in the butt connectors or isn't that necessary.
AnswerHello,
I will assume that you severed the wires when you had originally took the column apart for something else and severed the wires, because it would not have been starting for you in that condition.
There are two very common problems with GM steering columns. One is the VATS as discussed. The other even more common problem is that the tilt columns loosen up from grabbing on them to get in. If this was the original issue you were trying to correct, many people think they can get by tightening the top 2 bolts. The only problem is that the column will end up having to be disassembled again very shortly.
I don't know if this is the reason you disassembled the column for this reason, but if it was, tightening 2 bolts only is a temporarily fix.
There are special tools that need to be used to remove the bearing housing and specialized knowledge to tighten the other hidden two bolts.
Some try to remove the bearing housing and break the special pivot pin removal tool because the pivot pins are seized. Some do get the bearing housing off and when trying to reinstall drop bearings out of the housing or worse.
As I said, I don't know if this was the issue, but it is common enough that loose columns happen on just about every old Saginaw tilt column. I rebuild these columns quite frequently. People commonly remove the column and send to me to go over the column.
Sometimes these steering columns get so bad, they split in half. In this scenario, instead of the ignition lock being on the right side of the column, it faces the top of the column. This can be very dangerous. Worse yet, if one tries to get a junk yard column, chances are it is loose as well. This event happens as I said by hanging on to the steering column to get in.
Trucks were the most common and Corvettes because the column is always grabbed as a lever to get in the vehicle and full body weight placed on it.
Before going to Radio Shack, call around to alarm stores, they might have these VATS bypass kits and they might give a kit to you.
The kit has all 15 resistors and a value sheet.
As for soldering, you can do that for a more secure connection, however this can be challenging and you will see why. I have seen these connections to the resistor soldered only to become loose again. Butane solder kits were recommended in that car because of the potential of blowing the air bag with an electric soldering iron. At least that is what we were taught in 1990.
As for the resistance, as I said, you are allowed 10% variation and using butt connectors does not have that much effect on the resistance. This system is not required to have exact resistance and I have never had a problem using butt connectors to bypass it.
The choice is yours.
The reason these very thin wires broke internally is if you had the turn signal switch off, you would see that the two wire mounting harness is mounted by the key buzzer. Each time the lock cylinder (not tumbler as called), the wires move every time. After a period of time, tilting the column, shifting the Trans lever, these wires break.
What I have addressed are the very two common problems with this column.
Good Luck!
http://www.autotheftexpert.com
Hi,
Thanks for the rating.
Please let me know how all this ends up working for you, what you ended up doing for a resistor either going with a resistor from radio shack or calling around to alarm stores for the VATS bypass kit. obtaining the kit in my opinion if less hassle.
Although you never asked these questions, I feel you and the public might want to be aware of the other 3 very common problems associated with Cadillacs. The reason I bring these up is to keep you and the public aware of these issues and maybe I can save you and others money on the other three common problems inherent with Cadillacs.
1) Power antenna quits working: The major concern if still working is that the mast can break causing the antenna motor to continue to run, to bring down the charge in the battery. Commonly, people will spend the money on an antenna motor assembly which is very costly. What many don't know is that GM sells a mast kit which includes a new mast and drive cable. Relatively easy to change in minutes.
2) Heater blower either works and continues to run, discharging battery. Depending on the year of the vehicle, either the resistor module fails under the hood and in the other type the BCM is the problem. On the style with the resistor module, a toggle switch can be hardwired in which will give the owner either high blower or off saving the $300+ price for replacement of the faulty resistor module.
Last but not least, but the most serious-aluminum engine over-heating. It is very common for people to have a coolant leak and run the engine hot until it self-destructs! If this engine is being driven with the hot light on or over 3/4 on the gauge, the engine is already being destroyed. The second the hot light comes on, or the temp gauge goes over 230 degrees, it is guaranteed the engine must be shut down. If not, at minimum the head gaskets blow and further internal engine damage goes on from there.
Junk year engines are not available because 99% have been overheated and a new engine costs %5,000.
The reason I addressed these three other issues is because these cars are very reliable except for the loose steering columns, the VATS and the other three issues addressed and all 5 of these problems are inherent in Cadillacs. Its not if, but when the owner will stumble on these problems. Since I addressed the to problems that could effect you currently, I figured I would bring up the other 3 for you and other readers.
I have owned over 20 Cadillacs and have been working on them since the 80s.
Happy Holidays
