QuestionQUESTION: I have a 99 DeVille D'Elagance. When I went to start the car after driving it for about 30 minutes and shopping for about 60 minutes, the car would not start. I got a dash message something to the effect that the starter system was disabled and to wait 3 minutes. I waited and the car started promptly. Since then this has happened three more times, but never after the car has set for overnight. The first start of the day is OK. It happens with my key and my wife's key as well (the keys have the "pellet" in the shank with connecting surfaces on both sides of the pellet). I should mention that it is cold here (12-20 degrees) and the car is garaged overnight. We've never tried it after is has set out all night in the cold. I like to do as much maintenance as I can to save $. Is this something I can troubleshoot and repair myself?
ANSWER: Hi Curt,
Just bypass the factory so-called "Anti-Theft"-"Owner Unfriendly" VATS.
Take an ohm meter and read the key resistance. Go to your local car alarm store (VATS bypass kit comes with every alarm that has remote start) or Radio shack and get a resistor within 10% of the value on the key.
Two very small white wires run down the steering column in an orange sheath.
Under the dash, locate these wires. Cut and strip these wires. You are going to leave the wires coming out of the column dead. Insert the resistor between these two wires left outside the column. The best is to solder with a butane torch, but do your best for connecting these two wires to the resistor. Tape and you are done. This was the vehicle computer sees the "proper resistance value key."
Now, once you have done this, go to a local auto parts store and get a toggle and 10 or 12 gauge wire. Remove the steering column shrouds. Use a test light to determine the wire that is hot only on start. Should be yellow or purple. Cut the wire and splice in your 10 or 12 gauge wire, tape. The other ends of this wire will attach to the toggle. Tape your wire and hide the switch. We used to put the switch under the sill plate, under the seat. Somewhere concealed. Use your imagination. You now have what is known as a starter kill.
You can toggle the switch while the engine is running. The next time you go to start the engine, you will need to toggle again or the engine won't start.
You have to install the starter kill, so if someone tries to steal the car, they won't get it.
If you have insurance and your car is stolen, due to lack of knowledge on these systems, the insurance locksmith expert will state your are involved in the theft because the car with this system is "Unstealable."
Worse yet, because of these inept experts, you might even be charged with insurance fraud.
With the instructions here, you are taking care of 2 problems: Bypassing the factory junk, and installing real security on the vehicle.
Good Luck!
Rob
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: What do you think is the root cause of this problem? Is it a poor connection in the key/lock on the column or with the two small white wires near the key/lock? Or is it further away from the key/lock, perhaps at some computer chip? What is the predominant failure mode here? I like to know why systems are failing. [You can probably tell by now from all these insane questions, I'm an engineer.] By the way, in case I can't get back to the page to rate your answer, I'll tell you now, I'm really pleased.
ANSWER: Hi Curt,
The most common cause for your type of problem with the VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) as its called, is that you have an over priced ignition lock cylinder. What makes it different from others is that it has a wiring harness with 2 contacts in the front of the lock cylinder. When the key with the resistor pellet is inserted in the lock, it completes the circuit so that the vehicle can read the resistor value (one of 14 on your car).
These wires that lead down the steering column are very small (Like old telephone wire). The wires brak inside the harness and engine will not start at times. Even if you physically inspect these wires, chances are you won't see a break.
This was a very, very common problem. The chip on your key is only a resistor and not a computer chip as some think. A chipped key, the chip is not seen.
The problem is that say you go to a dealer and have a new lock installed (Automotive locksmiths are half the price with an identical part), it is just doomed to fail again.
Dealers were charging years ago $300 for this lock installed and sometimes more! They were charging $40 a key too! In fact, I saw where the dealer would charge for a key and since that didn't fix it, $300 additional for the lock.
I was just trying to save you headaches.
This system first came out in 1986 on the Corvette and was used until 2005 on many vehicles.
How good would a computer be for security from 1986?
Insureds still get denied on theft claims on vehicles so-equipped.
It may have slowed a thief down until 1990, but after that remote start was common and these systems were bypassed all the time.
If you go to http://www.autotheftexpert.com, my contact info is there if you run into problems.
Rob
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: If the wire(s) are broken between the lock and the connector leading to the VATS, why does the car start after waiting the requisite three minutes? With a broken wire, I would think it would never see the resistance of the key pellet. Is there some software in the VATS that says "start now that the three minutes are up regardless of the whether the pellet resistance is being read".
AnswerHi Curt,
I did not state broken wires were the absolute problem with your car. I stated tht it was a very common problem. The VATS module could fail as well.
With the ignition lock harness bypassed, it may eliminate your problems all together in the computer seeing the proper key every time.
This is a very low tech system.
The times are questionable as well. When the locksmith was using the "Interrogator" (the machine that reads the resistance of the system) it was always stted that it was 4 minutes between key use.
This is because there was a 4 minute timer on the machine.
I found the waiting time between different resistor codes to be actually 2 minutes with prctical testing. Your dash says 3 minutes. Which is it?
Only one VATS module was made, not 14 to cover all the keys. If you were replacing the module with a new one, the first key it received a signal from would burn the code for that specific resistor.
GM's design of security left a lot to be desired.
The reason I told you to bypass the VATS is strictly to rule out a very common problem.
The common complaint at the dealer was "engine starts at times."
One aspect to the VATS I ran across, was it could do weird things because of the broken wiring. It all depended on when the wires came apart. If the wires came apart when engine shut off, the engine may not start the next time unless you tilted the steering column, shifted the gears from PARK etc.
If the engine was running when the wires came apart, the security light might iluminate steady or flashing. Sometimes the system would "go to sleep", in which it would not need the "proper resistor key" to start the engine.
I am not an engineer. I cannot explain all the resons the system functions the way it does. I have just dealt with this system with real life situations for close to 20 years.
Hearlded as anti-theft, this system never did prevent theft. If working properly, it just slowed a thief down if he was to drive off with the vehicle.
I suggest you bypass the system first and see if you even get any of those security error messages anymore.
I am not aware of any software to reset this system other thn the over-priced glorified ohm meter known as the "Interrogator."
You may or may not know this. GM did not make the lock and key. Strattec of Milwaukee makes the locks and keys for all GM, Chryslers and Fords.
Good Luck!
Rob
http://www.autotheftexpert.com
