QuestionTHANKS FOR ANSWERING SO QUICKLY, ONE OTHER QUESTION, THE BLOWN FUSE WHERE WOULD IT BE LOCATED , I CHECK UNDER THE STEERING WHEEL "FUSE BOX LOCATION" ALL WERE OKAY, LOOKED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT COULD ONLY FIND ONE AREA NEAR THE PASSENGER SIDE THAT HAD SOME POSTIVE BOLTS FOR CONNECTING WIRES AND ONE RELAY THAT SAID FUEL PUMP OR SOMETHING. COULD NOT FIND ANY OTHER FUSES. AM I MISSING THE OTHER ONES FOR THE ENGINE ACCESSORIES LIKE ON FORD TRUCKS "BOX IN ENGINE WITH MANY FUSES AND RELAYS" ANY OTHER FIX YOU SUGGESTED WILL HAVE TO BE DONE BY A MECHANIC AND I WILL PASS ALONG YOUR ADVICE TO THEM.
-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I just bought a 93 chevy cheyenne work truck 265000 miles, with 350 v8 engine. Ive been driving it for a week ,runs great and today on the freeway it just died, no noise or smoke or anything. First I replaced the fuel filter, nothing, then the coil, it started and the second I gave it gas it died and still wont start. The cap, rotor,wires and plugs were done within a year ago. I even put my finger on the output of the new coil while cranking the engine and did not get shocked.Even bought another coil and still wont start or run. Could it be something with the electronics or could the timing have something to do with it. Also 2 days ago I ran the gas down low and it started to sputter so I pulled over and added some gas to get to the gas station.
Answer -
No spark could be a blown fuse, a bad ignition switch not switching power to the ignition, a broken timing chain, a bad crank sensor.
Van
AnswerHello michael,
Just for future refference, since you found that power strip, and relay....That is the fuel pump relay, by the way....Right beside that stuff, toward the fender, there is a little thing clipped to the firewall with two wires going to it. Inside that little thing is a fuse. That is the fuel pump fuse.
You will need to know where that is someday, in case you don't already.
I assume you have checked, and find that the pump inside tha gas tank runs for two seconds after the key is turned to run. It needs to. Then, after you start cranking the engine, the pump should continue to run for as long as the engine is running.
Now....that strikes me as dumb sticking your finger to the coil. That coil puts out more than 30,000 volts. (That's Thirty thousand),....and it will cause you to hurt yourself jumping back if it is working, so you are lucky it wasn't.
So why wasn't it working?
First it needs battery voltage to the primary side when the ignition switch is in either run or start. That should be a red wire. Check for that power first. If you have it, don't worry about the fuse, cause it is ok.
If no power, check the fusible links. Some may be by the fuel pump relay, and some come from the battery post on the starter. They look like a fat piece of wire, connected to another wire, with a pregnant looking splice. The fusible links are wire, and flexable, but they can be burnt inside the rubber coating. It will feel like the wire is missing inside if you squeeze it, and that is just exactly what it is.
Another thing that will keep power from the coil is a bad connection in that big plug of wires passing thru the firewall, or an ignition switch not working correctly.
Then there is the distributor. First make sure the rotor is rotating.
Then there are some checks for power to modules inside the distributor, one of which is the ignition module, and there is a pole piece, and a pickup piece.
Some of that stuff requires some special equipment to test, so if power is getting to the items I mentioned, you may need to mark locations, and remove the distributor, and take it to a parts house to have it tested.
I would find one that tests them first, and see how they want it.
At the public library, in the refference section, you can find some manuals.
Find one that shows a step-by-step proceedure for testing the ignition system.
Van
