QuestionThis is sort of a follow up to the Air Cond, Engine mount questions, and a little more.
Thanks again for all your help this is a great resource that I didn't know existed, and the responses come so quickly. Very Cool.
I have a few more questions about the Air Cond. I will put more gas in it and see if that helps. In the book they mention overriding a switch that keeps the clutch cycling on so that it continues to pressurize and take in the "freeon." I don't know how to do that. Right now it just cycles in long enough to get about half way and then it cycles off and apparently stops taking in "freeon." So I am not sure it is getting all it can get in there. How do I "hot wire" it so that it stays on. Are there any diagrams you could link me to to show me which switch is which, etc....?
2nd question about the engine mounts. I am not sure what I shifted when I lifted the engine the first time, but there are two of these covers one on each side of the engine, they are long and rectangular but rounded, about the same length as the engine, with three bolts spaced evenly along the top. The seal about 1/4 of the way down the engine seemed to be widened or shifted about a millimeter that I never noticed before after I had lifted the engine. I am worried that I might have bent something or pulled something apart that shouldn't have been. Do I need a new seal? "Valve cover?-my dad says?" Not sure. Sorry i couldn't be more detailed.
Last but not least: in my changing out of the motor mounts I also noticed that there is a mount much like the ones for the motor for the transmission that also rests on a part of the frame. It is worn out too. How difficult is it to replace that one? What tools would I need, etc... Also I am starting to notice a shiny area on the transaxle right at the area where it goes into the transmission at the rear of the transmission. It seems to be growing, and there is a little transmission fluid all around it and a drop or two coming from that area. Is this bad? I recently had the whole engine out for an oil pan replacement. Firestone did it, and I am nervous that they didn't put my engine back quite the same way. That aircond. issue started after that, as well as a few other things, like my ABS light going on...etc...
Thanks for all your help. I hope I didn't overwhealm you with all my issues...
my truck does have 270,000 miles on it, and I just changed the clutch for the first time about 7 months ago.
Peace out
Scott
AnswerHello Scott,
After all the praise on how quickly the answers came the first time, I am sorry this one took so long.
I was out of town for the weekend and forgot to set myself as gone.
Now, as for the switch, what is being talked about is that connector on the large round silver ball on the passengers side. The connector comes off, and you use a paper clip in the connector to jump the connections.
But don't just try to get all the freon in that you can. The system is designed to operate on a very precise amount. Too much will not work any better than too little. There is a sticker that sys the amount to use, and exactly that much is what you want.
The other mount is the transmission mount, and it is much easier to change than the engine mounts. And yes, those are valve covers that bent, and if they leak oil when the engine is running, you will need to replace the gaskets, but you may even need to replace a cover or both.
That isn't a transaxle. Transaxles are on front wheel drive vehicles, and is a combination of transmission and drive axle.
What you are talking about is the slip yoke of the rear driveshaft, that slides into the tailshaft housing of the transmission.
It is intended to go in and out a certain amount as the rear axle moves up and down, and actually moves foreward and backward as you accelerate and decelerate. There will always be a shiny area there, and just a little tiny bit of transmission fluid seeping there isn't bad, as long as it doesn't drip a bunch out. That seal is relatively easy to replace with the correct tool.
Van
