QuestionThanks for your reply
I got a haynes manual and i am starting the job on tuesday.
When you say sanded do you mean planed. I found a machine shop that will do it. Do I need to take the valve springs off?
Also what do you mean by the block drain plug? Do you mean the drain plug in the radaitor if so that is broken should I just disconnect the lower radaiator hose?
Should I relieve the fuel preasure and what should I use to clean all the parts. lifters,rocker and the head, just a crd cleaner and something else.
Thank you
steve-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
Thank you for your quick reply
I am going to try and replace the head gasket .
I know there is a kit that contains the Head gasket and the valve cover gasket. What other gaskets should I change when I am in there.
Should I also replace the bolts? Are there any special tools required and do I have to have the valve covers machined so there are smooth?
I am pretty sure I can do this I have a 98 ford explorer and have done ball joint,control arms intake manifold gaskets and when hub assembly.
I will be getting a Haynes manual. Are the directions in there accurate and how long should this take?
Do you have any tips that will make this Job as easy as possible
Thank you so much for your help and quick reply
Steve
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Followup To
Question -
My fried has a 1997 Chevy cavalier 2.2L 145,000
He has been having some over heating problems.
First his water pump was leaking. I changed that and there are now no leaks. His car was still overheating so I changed the thermostat and filled the expansion tank with antifreeze. I used the Preston 50/50 orange coolant. I started the car so the coolant would circulate and then fill the expansion tank back to where it should be. It worked for about 25 min of drive time. The coolant gage was reading about 1/4 to 1/2 of the temp.
There was also no heating problems.
On the way home the temp gage went all the way to high and then back down to about 1/4 then went back up. Also there was no heat.
He pulled over and the expansion tank was dry. he filled it back up with 50/50 coolant and ran it for a little with then the temp gage went back up. When he check the expansion tank it was dry again. he put more in and made it back home and had heat again.
He went through about 3 gallons for antifreeze.
When he got back home there were no leaks and the upper radiator hose was hot and the antifreeze sounded like it was bulbing hot. The fan it electronic and was working.
I checked the oil and it was where it sound have been and it didn't look like there was any mixing of the oil and antifreeze.
It seems that he is just burning up the antifreeze.
Could he have gotten a bad thermostat a problem with the radiator,a partial blockage some place or just need a good flushing.
Also he broke the drain cork. What is the best way to get it out so I can flush the radiator if needed?
How should I flush out the system and should I use any cleaner?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Thank you
steve
Answer -
Hi Steve, It sounds like he needs a new head gasket to me. The coolant is being burned through the combustion camber. The only other thing it could be is a crack in the cylinder head. I would replace the head gasket and go from there. The odds are it is just the gasket and not a cracked head.
Let me know how you make out Mark
Answer -
Hello Steve, First of all I don't remove the head all the way from the engine. I can do this job in less then 2 hours. I remove the exhaust manifold from the engine. Remove the block drain plug to drain coolant. Remove the power steering bracket bolt from the lower part of the intake manifold,from the bottom side.disconnect and remove the front engine mount. Jack up the engine to gain access to the p/s bolts. Remove the 3 bolts through the p/s pulley that hold the pump to the bracket. Remove the alternator.Now just remove the valve cover,push rods and rockers,head bolts. push the p/s pump back with your hand to the rear. Lift the head up and out from the p/s pump and block it up with a 2x4. Sand the surface and reinstall.
No special tools needed and no new bolts.
Head bolt torque is 45 ft lbs plus 90 deg
let me know how you make out. Mark
AnswerHi Steve, I don't remove the head completely from the engine. Just get it so you can lift it up and remove the gasket, then use 120 grit sand paper to clean the surface of the head and block. If you want to have it milled you can. You don't have to remove the valves or springs if you do this.
Mark
