Questioni need to reset or overide the alarm i dont have a remote
AnswerHi Sunday,
To begin, verify that fuses 4 and 12 in the fuse box in the engine compartment are good, and that fuses 5 and 7 in the fuse of the dash are good before doing anything. Those are the fuses in the theft system. Also, check fuses 8 and 15 at both locations as well as fuses 9 and 11 in the dash box as all those fuses are involved with the body computer's functions which is where the electronics of the anti-theft system are located. That computer is on the back side of the dash fuse box and is accessible from under the dash if necessary (let me know if you have to do that).
There are several possibilities for what to try:
First I would verify that neither door key lock will disarm the theft system. Both doors are connected to the body computer but the wire from the driver door may be disconnected or shorted to ground. So try to lock, then unlock, the passenger door using the door key. See if that has disarmed the system so it will then start and run. If so, then either the driver door lock switch or wire connecting it to the body computer (which has likely fatigued at the door hinge where is crosses over from the door to the body) can be repaired OR if you will be very careful to never use the door key, the power door locks, or a remote key fob to secure the vehicle in the future then you will never set the alarm again. The way to secure the vehicle if you take that approach is to only use the mechanical push button lock tabs on the inside of the doors when securing the vehicle and it will be just like the good old days before anti-theft systems.
Second, the electrical function of each door key lock can be measured at the pins on the 20 pin black plug for the body computer. That would verify both the wire connection for each door as well as the electrical function of the door lock (there are 2 different values of electrical resistance (940 ohms when the key is moved to the 'lock/arm' position, 470 ohms when the key is moved to the 'unlock/disarm' position). The driver lock wire is on pin #20 and for the passenger door is on pin 19. This would have to be measured with everything 'off' and the measurement made between the cold side of fuse #5 in the fuse box at the left end of the dash WITH that fuse REMOVED. (These resistance values are from the '96 manual. The '98 manual values are 1,000 ohms and 0 ohms, respectively. Because I don't have the '97 manual I can't be certain which set of readings you get on your '97, it has to be one or the other of the pairs if the lock/wire are 'patent'). Failure to see any resistance readings other than infinite would verify that the wires to the door key locks are 'open'.
The last approach require going under the dash to the front side (front of the car) of the body control module where its two black plugs are located (one has 12 pins the other has 20).
In this last approach, assuming the '96 manual applies to your '97, one can take a 470 ohm resistor from an electronics store and use it to jump briefly (one touch) between the light green/orange wire on pin 19 of the black 20-pin plug of the body computer and any 12 volt supply point nearby to that pin. The 20-pin plug should be in its socket when you do the jump. That is basically the way the door lock signals the body computer to disarm the system and allow the engine to start and run. (If the '98 resistor values apply then a simple 12v jump to pin 19 will do the disarm. The last approach is basically fooling the body computer by simulating the unlock voltage message that it would normally receive from the door key lock.
Again, if you need instruction on getting under the dash to the body computer plugs, ask a 'follow-up" question.
PS: I notice another way to access either the left or right side are/disarm wire which would be easier than going under the dash. The wires in question go across from the door to the body at the door hinge and at each hinge the harness that includes the wires go through a brown color disconnect at pin 12 of that disconnect. So locate either the light green/orange wire at the driver door hinge or the dark green/orange wire at the passenger side door on the brown disconnect and do the 'jump' I described above to the brown disconnect on the body-side of the door hinge connector. Those wires are likely in good condition (from the disconnect to the body computer). And you will find a 12v supply to do the jump at the pink wire of pin 2 of that disconnect. So simply jump from pin 2 to pin 12 with a 470 (or thereabout) ohm resistor and if that doesn't disarm do the jump with a piece of wire. Very simple is would appear to be!
Please 'rate/nominate' my answer/me (see the PS below).
Thanks,
Roland
