Chrysler Repair: instrument cluster/theft system: 89 New Yorker electronic cluster, fuse box, lighting circuit


Question
QUESTION: Ok Roland, I have a dead fuse #5 cluster fuse I replaced it with a different fuse from fuse box and it didn't work either but the one I pulled from the #5 spot did in the other location so I know its not the fuse WHAT DO YOU THINK?

ANSWER: let me check the wiring diagrams and get back shortly

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QUESTION: all right now, so as for the ground you are talking about to the frame where do I find that for sure? and I failed to tell you this as well, I can be driving down the road and the alarm will set it's self the gauges completely quit at that point speed goes to 0 until I pull over and shut the car off and re-start then it is fine again...

ANSWER: Hi Tiny,
The #5 fuse is 'dead (showing no voltage at all) when the headlamps are in the "off" position, so that explains that confusing situation. That fuse is in the dash lighting circuit.
The ground for the cluster could be any metal structural object behind the dash; you might well see a bunch of black wires bolted to the vertical structural support there. It just needs to not be painted or rusted.
On the alarm 'set it's self', what do you mean by that? And other than the cluster entirely quitting, does anything else happen with the function of the vehicle at that time?
It would really be helpful to me the have you restate the various issues so that I can get a good handle on what is going on there. The discussion has been covered over several questions and it is difficult to sort them out.
Thanks for you understanding.
And thanks for the rating/nomination.
Roland

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QUESTION: As for the questions at hand here. I have taken care of everything else except for this dash/alarm issue. That is really what our focus is now and I think we are on track here...  (I THINK)
I got you for the dash issue, Should I have checked #5 with the lights on? It shouldn't matter the key was on so it should be hot anyway correct? I will tear into it tomorrow and look around for a ground issue. As for the alarm issue, while driving the set light for the alarm will begin flashing and everything stops as far as the display in the dash. no gauges no speed nothing. but when you turn off the key and re-start the car,  back to normal it goes. Now Roland when the set light is flashing the car still runs fine, I thought I should throw that in there too...

Answer
Hi Tiny,
About fuse #5 it is given its power by the headlamp switch being turned on. So it will not have power related to the ignition switch at all.
Rather than focus on the grounding of the instrument cluster, focus on the theft alarm flashing on its own accord. My thought is that one of the door ajar switches is not being firmly activated by the closed door. When it falsely reports the door is ajar that may initiate the process. Most likely the driver door would be the one that is not secured firmly so move the striker in the door frame inboard a few millimeters to see if that ends the problem. You can check all the doors by having a helper push outward on each door while you are driving to see whether a different door is responsible for the initiation. There are also sensors on the hood and trunk lid but those are less likely to be the cause.
Let me know what you learn. There is a diagnostic data link socket that is blue in color under the dash and a DRB-II readout box could be plugged in and query the body computer for any fault codes. There is also a self-test of theft system also, but it is a couple of pages in length and I would prefer to Xerox copy and postal mail that to you. Let me know a postal mailing address.
Please 'rate/nominate' this answer/me (see the PS below).
Thanks,
Roland