Chrysler Repair: 04 Sebring door locks not opening, control circuitry, logic circuit

Question
only my l/r door lock will open when using the keyfob.i have to turn the key and hold up the handle to enter the vehicle.the fuse is good.i can hear clicking  under the dash when i push the door switch and when i hit the fob,but locks wont respond.thanks in advance

Answer
Hi Stephen
Revised answer:
Before opting for a replacement BCM you might want to check out the voltages that are being put out by the pcm to each of the four door lock motors at the white (internal color, remove plug to see the color) 26-pin plug of the bcm. There are two 26-pin plugs so verify you have the correct plug.  
You could use fine straight pins to pierce through  the insulation of each pair of wires and connect your voltmeter to each pair of pins and use the fob while observing what voltage is shown between each pair of wires as you try lock and then unlock. If the l/r lock voltage also shows on the other three door lock wire pairs, then the bcm is not the problem. The voltage reading is identical for lock and unlock, but the polarity is reversed.
The wire pairs are:
driver: 9 and 13
passenger: 12 and 25
left rear: 10 and 26
right rear: 11 and 24
The numbers are inscribed on the plug, and if you are having trouble ID'ing them I can also tell you the colors of the wire on each pin.
Thanks for the rating and nomination, Stephen.
Roland

That is unusual that the only lock that works is the left rear because basically all the doors are on the same logic circuit which is moderated by the body control module and the three non-driver doors are essentially functioning as a group in terms of the actuation of them. And ever the wiring for all 4 door locks is independent between the lock motor and the bcm.  So even in the fault code manual for the power door locks there is no fault that is listed which would be that only one passenger door works and the driver and two other passenger door lock motors don't work.
It suggests to me that there is some coincidental common mechanical problem with the three doors that is related to lubrication/dirt/frozen mechanism rather than to anything in the electronic control circuitry. Can you tie this in to weather conditions? In the history of this did all three go 'out' at the same time or was there a progression of the problem over a period of time?
It might be that there is less than the full battery voltage getting to the body control module due to a weak connection. You could check both sides of fuses 3,8,17,18,23 under the hood, and fuses 5,9,11,15 in the fuse box at the left end-cap of the dash to see whether the voltages are identical to what is shown across the battery proper. All those fuses are involved with circuits controlled by the pcm including the door lock motor circuits. Do the measurements with the key in the 'run' position so that all the fuses will be powered up.
Let me know and perhaps we can find an answer.
Please 'rate' my answer (see the PS below)
Thanks,
Roland