QuestionQUESTION: Answer: Hi Keith,
We know that there is too much draw on fuse 24 (hazards) which supplies pin 2 on the 6-pin/4-wire plug at the pcm. So we have to figure out why that is the case.
We also need to find another current draw related to the bcm to know how to get this down to around 25 mA. But there are 3 other current supplies to the BCM:
Unplugging C1 as you did disconnects the draw on fuse 24 (hazard), and also disconnects the draw on fuse 19 at pin 5, a non-specific current supply to the bcm. I would suggest that you see what the resistance to ground is shown at both pin 2 and pin 5 of that socket of the bcm. Or even better see what happens to the overall current draw at the battery when you remove fuse 19 and then remove fuse 24.
Then on bcm plug C2 (34-pin black/green) pin 5 draws current from the ignition switch but only when the key is in the run/start so that is not a problem with the battery draw down.
Pin 7 of C2 draws on fuse 14 (IOD,powers all system that are needed when the ignition is off) so either see that that pin' resistance to ground is on the socket-side or better see what the overall current draw is when you remove fuse 14.
So basically: Let us see how much of the overdraw is being sucked individually through fuses 14, 19 and 24 from the battery when the ignition is off.
Roland
More questions? Ask a "Follow-up". Please click on the 'rate' this answer button, and click on "Yes" to nominate me for 'volunteer of the month' if I merit that.
Roland- for some reason the "Ask a follow-up" was not on the last post, so hence, the new question: my mother-in-law's van's fuse and relay center is not labeled by numbers in either the center or the owner's manual. Could you please point me to where I could find the numbering on the web or if you could describe it to me? Likewise, could you do the same for the pin locations on the BCM connectors? Once I have that, I might be able to get ahold of the van again this coming week-end and I'll do the resistance checks and get back with you. Thanks
ANSWER: Let me check the manual and get right back to you.
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QUESTION: Rowland- don't rush on it, I'm leaving work for the day and I'll be away from this e-mail address till tomorrow. Thanks for the quick response though!
ANSWER: Hi Keith,
I am suspecting that this may have something to do with the lighting associated with the hazard/turn signal flashing system. The draw on 24 as well as the body computer 'driving' those lights and those are used also for the anti-theft alarming function...all mediated thru the bcm and are presumably associated with a function that is needed when the ignition is off points somehow to a short circuit with the lighting circuits. Try turning on the hazard lights (there is a instrument panel switch bank) and see if those are functioning properly. Then test the vehicle theft security system to see if it's flashing lights/horn blowing is functioning properly when you set off the alarm. Also check for the function of all the turn signal lights. Check for any courtesy lights that might be 'on' that are not obvious such as glove compartment,underhood lights. In fact I would check all the courtesy lights and individual switched lights as there may be one that has a defective bulb which shorts the 12v to ground but without putting out any light. Thus if left 'on' it is a continuing drain on the system without giving itself away.
There are a long list of courtesy devices powered out of the bcm and I may have to list all of them and have you go find them to see if they are 'on' or shorted 'on'. I listed some of them earlier.
Roland
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QUESTION: Rowland- Welcome back, hope you had a good vacation! While you were out, I was able to get back at my mother-in-law's van issue: I tried your first suggestion of hooking my amp meter back up and start pulling fuses and noting what amount of change happened. However, I could not truly identify fuse #14 and #19. So I started pulling fuses and made note of what fuse name (per the relay center cover). This is what I got- everything in place = 0.88A draw. Not touching anything, 4 min later draw drops to 0.03A. 4 min later, back to 0.88A. Pulled Haz/Trn fuse = 0.02A draw. Switched to mA scale on meter- reads 19.88mA. Pulled a non-labeled 20A fuse in about the location of what you decsribed fuse #14 to be and meter went blank for 1 sec then back to 19.88mA. Systematically pulled fuses with no change to draw until Fuel Pump fuse = 18.52mA. ABS module fuse = 18.16mA; BCM fuse = 16.35mA; ABS Pump = 16.29mA; IOD = 2.91mA.
Next I tried you suggestion above and looked to lights on. This van does not have a under-hood light nor a glovebox light. So I went to removing all of the interior courtesy lights as well as the turn/hazard lamps. No change in the draw. So, back to you for anymore ideas.
Now, this van have the remote control automatic opening/closing slider doors and rear hatch. Is it possible that one of these functions could be drawing through the remote receiver/transmitter somehow? Or are these circuits completly separate from any of the circuts of the fuses I pulled and saw the amp draw drop? Thanks again for your help with this!
AnswerHi Keith,
All the readings except of course the 0.88A are normal. The question in my mind, since all the other readings with one at a time pull of fuses was under 25mA, was the overall draw just before pulling each of the fuses that you pulled 0.88A and if not what was it? All the diagnoses have to be between an existing 0.88A reading so as to find out what is 'on' when the reading is 0.88A.
If you just watch the reading with everything buttoned does it just keep cycling every 4 minutes ad infinitum? If so, then you just have to pull all the fuses and circuit breakers, one at a time, when the reading is 0.88. If it doesn't drop then immediately replace, and go to the next fuse/breaker; when you find one that causes a big drop then wait for 4 minutes to be sure it doesn't go back to 0.88A reading even though you have the fuse/breaker out.
That is the only way to be sure you have pulled the fuse on the troubled circuit when you have this up/down every 4 minute behavior. That cycling is generally a device with a memory that has a time out delay but for some reason it is not staying timed out. But what is it????
Roland
