Chrysler Repair: Starting Issue: 97 LH body/3.3L egr, crank sensor, cam sensor

Question
QUESTION: Hi Roland,

I have a 97 Dodge Intrepid base model with the 3.3 128k miles.   I have been having intermittent starting issues with the car for about 3 months now.  About 6 months ago I replaced the cam sensor due to what I called a “bucking” problem when accelerating.  It took care of that but now I have issues with “cold” starts.  When I say cold I more mean cold engine than cold weather although it is more common when it is damp out or below 50 degrees… although it’s parked indoors at night and at work.  

The starting issue will go in streaks, for a week it will turn over and not fire.  Some mornings it takes as few as two of these incidents before it fires, other days up to 10 times.  Then will work for another week without issue.  Recently it has been more an issue where it only clicks (I presume that’s the starter producing the click sound) when initiating the ignition and after a few of those occurrences it fires up.  Battery is new, strong, and recently re-tested to be sure.  Starter was tested as well at Autozone and passed with flying colors.  That brings me to the codes… I have a 54 (Cam) and 32 (EGR).  I replaced the cam again last night.  The EGR I have on order because I found one by Wells at a reasonable price.  Am I on the right path here or is there something else I could be missing that would cause this intermittent issues with starting?   Also, do you have any suggestions for replacing the EGR?

By the way, once the car has been driven it will start perfectly the rest of the day.  Also, it runs quite smoothly and never feels like it wants to stall.  The crank sensor hasn’t been replaced and that’s mainly because I haven’t received the fault code for it.  The starter relay also appears to be working fine.

Thanks for your help.

Matt

ANSWER: Hi Matt,
I believe the egr is your problem. I think you can correct it easily. Find the egr, then notice the valve stem located between the vacuum cap and the valve body, hidden behind a flange. It has a slot into which you can insert the tip of a screwdriver so as to move the stem back and forth against spring-action which tries to close the valve. You will probably find the action is lazy.
So spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the body of the valve to free up the action. It should close on its own to a dead stop. Its failure to do so now is why you are having this problem. I can send you xerox copy of a page about replacement, but you may not have to do that.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, and where you see the question about a nomination for 'volunteer of the month' consider giving a 'yes'. Thank you

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Roland,

Thanks for the help.  Since the EGR is already shipped and on its way I am just going to go ahead with the replacement.  With a smog check coming up soon anyways I don't want any more issues with it and hope this is a failsafe for that code 32.  I'll still test the old one out and let you know if its lazy.  Would you have any way to scan and email that page for replacement?  If not what do you need to xerox the page to me?

Thanks,

Matt

Answer
Hi Matt,
I don't have that in digital format so can't email it. But it is straightforward:
Disconnect soleonid from intake manifold,
Disconnect electrical connector from solenoid
Remove screws holding egr in place.
Use a new gasket, and reverse the procedure.
I would need your postal mailing address, so let me know that, but there is not much more than what I have written. The torque spec. it 200 inch-pounds.
Roland
PS Thanks for the rating and nomination