QuestionQUESTION: I've been trying to locate the cause of the 30A ignition fusible link blowing whenever I start the car. The car will start and the fuse will blow almost immediately. I've pulled the starter, and bench tested both the starter, and the solenoid. Both function properly. I've also tested the starter relay, which is functioning normally.
The sebring is equipped with an antitheft system.
Any help is much appreciated.
ANSWER: Hi Shawn,
Would this 30 amp link be #3 (upper right) or #5 (4th counting from the left) that is blowing? The manuals doesn't show the labels, just the purposes and both could be called 'ignition'. Let me know and we'll go from there. Neither has anything to do with the starter system, by the way.
Roland
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QUESTION: It's the #5 fuse that is blowing (Multi-purpose and Ignition Switch).
By the way, I've also pulled and checked the key cylinder and lock, and they appear to be in good working order. I've taken apart the column, but haven't removed the ignition switch. The wires leading from the switch look fine.
ANSWER: That fusible to theignition switch power many items, unfortunately, including the starter relay.
It would be good to determine whether it blows when you turn the key to the run position, or not until you turn it to the start position, or even the 'accessory' position. If it blows before you try the starter, then pull fuses 8 and 13 from the box in the cabin and see if that prevents the link from blowing. If not, then we have to consider the fuel injection system, cruise control, automaic trans, fuel injection, and ignition systems. If it only blows when you put the key in the start position then the possible causes are: the starter relay, the starter motor solenoid, the supplimental restraint system, the automatic transmission, and the anti-theft system. So verify exactly which position of the ignition switch causes the fusible to blow and let me know.
A better way to figure this out would be to check the resistance to ground of the output wires from the switch: remove the plug at the switch and you will find that one of the wires (on pins 2,4,5 or 6 of the plug at the switch) is frankly shorted to ground (shows a very low resistance, near to 0 ohms. Tell me which wire that is and we can go from there to see what that wire is powering. The wire colors are: black/white, blue/black, black/red, blue, respectively.
Roland
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QUESTION: I used a digital voltmeter from the negative battery cable to the ignition switch coupler. Only pin number 2 (black/white) was shorted (.3 ohms).
AnswerOK, then check general purpose fuse 8 (10 amp) in the cabin just to be sure it hasn't been replaced with a shorting wire. It would usually blow first compared to the link if that were the problem area. But just to be sure...
Then the other possible short causing items are:
The fuel pump relay actuation coil
The cam shaft position sensor
The egr solenoid valve
The evap emission purge valve
The radiator fan relays
The condenser fan relay
The 12V power supply drawn by the ecm and the tcm (pull the plugs)
All these items are directly wired to the ignition switch pin 2 plug wire. You could disconnect each of them to see which one of them cause the resistance to rise above 0.3 ohm and that will be what is causing the short that blows the link. Also, look at the harness for each of those items to try and spot a melted insulation situation that could short a wire to ground. Some where in this complex set of circuits something is shorted to ground
Roland
