QuestionQUESTION: 95 chrysler cirrus 2.4l, 110k miles. started car, left running to warm up, was stalled when i came back out to leave. won't start.
what i know: fuel pump is running.
Plugs were checked, oil in tubes. This was cleaned out and plugs replaced. Timing belt appears to have been replaced.
They checked distributor and rotor, cleaned up and put back. Looked ok
It has spark.
Compression very low.
It hasn't had much heat, thermostat probably needs to be replaced. I read somewhere that another person had no start problem and it turned out being the thermostat was bad and it wouldn't circulate antifreeze so car wouldn't start. Does that make sense at all?
Any ideas?
ANSWER: Hi Mary,
How low do you mean by very low compression? Of course compression measured with a cold engine is going to be much lower than when it normally is measured with the engine warmed up.
The '95 model year with the 2.4L engine was still using the OBD-I fault code system which means that you can do a self-diagnosis using the ignition key and watching the check engine light: turn the key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains 'on', to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process to assure an accurate set of flash counts. Then send a follow-up question telling me the flash counts in order of appearance and we'll go from there. This is the most efficient troubleshooting approach.
The failure to circulate antifreeze wouldn't prevent a car from starting, but it would after it started cause it to overheat. How long did you leave the car running after you started it, and was there anything unusual such as steaming from under the hood or odors? Did you happen to notice if the temp gauge was reading H? Those would be signs of an overheated engine if that is what happened, but let us see how the diagnosis by fault codes goes.
Finally, is this a 2.4L or a 2.5L? You spoke of a distributor but only the 2.5L V-6 has a distributor.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, and where you see the question about a nomination for 'volunteer of the month, consider a 'yes' answer. Thank you
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QUESTION: cannot get it to throw a trouble code. The engine light doesn't flash.
Checked fuses/relays. All good. There is no fuse in the downsteam o2 sensor but it has no connector in the outlet either.
ANSWER: Hi Mary,
There are two fuses in the powerbox that is under the hood: #5 should show 12V all the time (check both ends of the fuse) and fuse #10 should show voltage when the ignition is 'on' on both ends of the fuse. Verify those voltages (using a meter or a glow light) to be good as they are what power the engine computer which is what has the memory and operates the flashing of the check engine light. Also check fuse #8 for voltage on both sides when the key is in the run posiition.
If those check out, then try for the code readout using the socket that is under the dash near the steering columnj using a fault code reader (did the shop try that approach?).
Do you hear the hum of the fuel pump, located at the rear of car inside the fuel tank, when you first turn the key to the 'run' position, which lasts for a about 1 second?
Until we can get fault codes, or absence of the fuel pump hum, there is not much else I can suggest to do from a distance. Is it a 2.4 or a 2.5L
Let me know.
Roland
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QUESTION: 2.5l;
fuel pump is working, that was first thing verified. Will have to wait until I can get a mechanic to go back out or have it moved to another shop to try the others. Hopefully tomorrow.
Enjoy your day!
AnswerHi Mary,
If it has fuel and spark, and at least some compression, then you have to focus on 'mixture' (fuel/air ratio). There is one part that often hangs up slightly ajar which will lean out the mixture too much to allow it to start, the egr valve. Here is the story on that part, which you could check out today:
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start.
Roland
PS Is it possible that you ran out of gas? The gauge might not be accurate?
