QuestionQUESTION: The transmission appears to be stuck in "limp-in" mode, in 2nd gear. The DTC was p1768 which I believe is a transmission relay stuck open. I bought a transmission relay from a local auto parts store but nobody I've talked to including mechanics, auto parts stores, trans shops and a Chrysler dealer seems to know where this relay is located. It is not in the power dristribution box under the hood.
The relay I bought from Napa if correct is a 5 prong relay the same physical size as the ten relays in the power distribution box except they are all 4 prong relays.
I'm hoping the problem is this simple but I have to locate the transmission relay first before I can find out.
Not so simple...
This is the V-6 model Sebring LX
Thanks,
Dan
ANSWER: Hi Dan,
On the back wall of the engine compartment (called the firewall) you will see four relays in front of the driver and the one that is next to the outboard-most relay is for the trans (number 3 counting left to right viewed from the front of the vehicle). Only 4 pins are used to run the relay, so I am not certain if you have the correct relay, but if it fits in the socket it will probably work.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer, and where you see the question about volunteer of the month consider giving a 'yes' answer. Thank you
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Roland, there is what appears to be relays on the firewall in the location you mentioned but there are only 3 of them and they are 5 prong relays.
Here's a picture I took of them on the firewall & uploaded to photobucket.com:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l320/BornToBeWild_01/Automotive/Firewallrelays
The next picture is of the three relays after I took them off the firewall and setting next to them is the 5 prong relay I purchased from Napa auto parts which is rectangular and quite a bit smaller than the square relays on the firewall. (This car being part Mitsubishi (sp?) and Chrysler is being a pain).
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l320/BornToBeWild_01/Automotive/Firewallrelays
The next picture is of the power distribution cover:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l320/BornToBeWild_01/Automotive/Powerdistribut
And the next is of the power distribution box opened:
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l320/BornToBeWild_01/Automotive/Powerdistribut[/IMG]
Maybe this will help?
The model of the car seems to be a fun one when dealing with it...ya right.
I suspect that the trans control relay is one of those three on the firewall but which one if it is?
And if that is the situation, then Napa sold me the wrong relay which doesn't surprise me especially with the Sebring model.
Also can the relays I removed from the firewall be tested to see if one is defective?
I appreciate your help and hopefully with this additional information I posted we can get this figured out.
Do you suspect with the DTC P1768 that the problem actually is the relay?
Thanks...
I'll try one picture with the image code to see if it opens in this forum:
[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l320/BornToBeWild_01/Automotive/Firewallrelays[/IMG]
And finally this is a picture of me with a nice coho I caught a couple months ago casting plugs from the bank in case you ever come out this way (Washington) and like to fish:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l320/BornToBeWild_01/coho/20Cowlitzcoho-10-05-
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l320/BornToBeWild_01/coho/20Cowlitzcoho-10-05-
Thanks again,
Dan
ANSWER: Hi Dan,
OK, sorry for the misguidance. I had in my '95 manual a written note that the fourth relay (back-up lamps), which was used in '95, had also been used in '96 and that subsequently ('97-on) it was a 3 relay set-up. Now I believe that because of the 3-relay configuration in your '96 that in fact the outboard relay, #3 of 3 counting from the left, is the etax relay. I don't think there is any doubt about this.
I do believe that you were probably sold a relay for a Sebring convertible (a Chrysler design) not the coupe (a Mitsubishi design). So take it back and ask for a relay for a Dodge Avenger (the same as yours except for the nameplate) and take along the old one to match it up.
I do believe that the 1768 has only one explanation, the relay itself, unless the wires to and from the relay had an open or a short circuit which I can tell you about how to check out.
The other two relays are #1 fuel pump and #2 autoshutdown. But over on the passenger side rear of the engine compartment is the cruise control relay and if that happpens to have the same part number you could 'borrow' it to see if you put it in the trans relay socket it solves you limp problem. Otherwise get the correct replacement relay.
Thanks for the invitation to fish, and I do visit Blaine in Whatcom Co. periodically where my son and family live. He is a fisherman and a sailing enthusiast, but I haven't had a strong attraction to the sport.
Roland
PS Thanks for the rating and nomination.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Sorry it took so long to get back to you Roland but I just wanted to say "thanks" and that the problem with the transmission was indeed the relay and it was the relay 3rd over from the left side, the one closest to the driver side of the car or outboard side as you called it.
The relay I bought was basically the same although it was in an enclosed plastic box whereas the relay that came out of the car was not enclosed and the inside coil and other parts were exposed after Ii removed it from it's enclosure.
So I had to mount it a little different than the old stock relay.
But it works!
The transmission works fine now however it still slips a little when coming to a stop and starting again (California stops, lol).
It's slow to engage which I don't know if a trans service would correct that or that is to be expected for a car with 200,000 miles on it.
I have to have patience with it before taking off again.
I don't know the history of the car prior to me buying it 3 years ago.
Thanks again as you were a life saver!
I'll get back to you again sometime soon I hope regarding the other 6 or 7 DTC's that have to do with the engine.
After erasing all the DTC's and driving for a week or better it only registered 2 error codes this time around after the check engine light came on again, along with engine stalling.
The car stalls often times while driving up to speeds of 45mph which is a real inconvenience especially in traffic.
But like i said, I'll get back with you in time with the codes before erasing them, and the 2 codes after.
Seems the stalling problem pretty much goes away until the engine service light comes on again after receiving DTC's again.
Perhaps the car computer attempts to correct the problems only making it worse to where it stalls?
Dan
Castle Rock, Washington
AnswerHi Dan,
Thanks for the update and glad to learn of the improved situation. Getting 200,000 miles on an ETAX is very rare.
On the stalling, aside from looking into the currend codes you might want to try checking out the egr valve to see if it might be gummed up as regards the movement of the valve stem. It is located along a narrow pipe that branches off the front exhaust manifold and goes back to the throttle area. It has a round vacuum-operated top and between that and the body of the valve located along the pipe is a flange area. Inside the flange you will see a rod which is the valve stem. It has a slot that you can use with the tip of a screwdriver to move the stem back and forth. Internal spring-action should close the valve to a dead stop. It is hangs up slightly ajar that can lead to stalling at idle and when accelerating due to leaning out the mixture. Spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the valve body, and move it back and forth to loosen up the action. That may solve the stalling problem.
Roland
