Questionignition switch changed...old one did test bad....still wont start no juice to the coil....relays all checked seem to be good......computer codes only for a battery disconnect...i wanna check the ignition control module but i cant seem to find it on my van and when i checked the parts store they dont have one listed for this year and make of voyager
AnswerHi Ray,
The pcm is located on the left inner fender, just below the front-most relay. On the power to the coil issue:
The ASD relay will power the coil and fuel pump when you first turn the key to the 'run' position, but only for about 1 second (you should see 12v on the coil/hear the fuel pump run). Then when you start cranking it over the 12v will reappear and the fuel pump will run for as long as you are cranking the engine. So see if that is the case. If not, then probably the hall effect sensor in the distributor is weak but not so badly as to cause an 11 fault code. If you have 12v on the coil while cranking then that is not the issue and you should be getting spark while cranking. Let me know what you find.
Roland
Question History:
Subject: ignition switch: '93 minivan
Question: QUESTION: Hi....i have a 1993 plymouth voyager with a 2.5......it all started when one day i notice the idiot lights would all light up when i took the key out of the ignition ...and a few days after that when i went to shut the car off it would keep running when i took the key out......i needed the car for transport so i just unplugged the coil to shut it off and had to disconnect the battery cause it was draining when it sat over night.....but i would reconnect and drive it still....well that lasted a week or 2 doing this.... then when i was at a stop sign it just quit and wouldnt restart.......can an ignition switch going bad cause all this?
ANSWER: Yes it sounds like your ignition switch is bad or the plug/wires at the switch are loose/damaged. So remove the steering column covers (screws on the under side) to gain access to the switch for inspection/replacement. First though remove the tilt lever by unscrewing it if you have a tilt wheel, and disconnect the battery. Use torx tamperproof screwdriver tip to remove. Then disconnect plugs. There are a couple of pages that show how to change out the lock cylinder so you don't have to spend money on that or new key. I can xerox copy and postal mail you those. Just use the private follow-up question option to tell me a postal mailing address.
Roland
PS Please 'rate' my answer. Thanks
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: ok.....i thought that was probably it but im a novice so i figured id ask.....after reading my inquiry tho i left out one detail that might make a difference.....when i said it wouldnt start back up i was very specific....it wouldnt start back up BUT it was turning over the motor..probably still the ignition switch? and the lock cylinder issue i found a video that walks u thru it on line for a plymouth so ill try that if i have problems ill get back to you for the zeorox....thatnks for ur help Roland ....and i rated u as well
ANSWER: Hi Ray,
There are 4 separate switch 'sections' in the ignition switch of which one is for the starter motor. That section appears to work, but maybe not one or more of the others. Those 3 are on pins 2,5,6 of the switch plug (dark blue, black/orange, black/white wires, respectively). Chect to see if you show 12v compared to ground on all 3 of those wires when the switch is in the 'run' position. If so, then the problem is not the switch.
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: ok roland i took the old ignition switch out.....got a replacement from the junkyard and now cant find the key to it....it there a way to get the lock cylinder out of the ignition switch without having a key or do i have to get a different onewdnlb
Answer: You have to have the key to remove it from the cylinder and there is a specific set of steps to do so.
Put it in the lock position. Then press the pin on the side of the housing until it is flush with the housing, then turn the key to the off position. Then that will allow the cylinder to move out a bit, but just move it out about 1/8" from the halo ring. Then rotate it back to the lock position and then remove the key. Then the cylinder will come out of the housing. The installation involves several details that I can describe but if it isn't clear let me send you a xerox of the page. There are 'figures' that are helpful.
Installation:
Make sure the electrical connectors are fully seated to the tabs
Trans must be in the Park position
Put switch in the lock position, column lock flag should be parallel to the switch terminals.
Position park dowel pin so it will engage the steering column park lock slider linkage
Lightly grease park dowel flag and park lock dowel pin
Place the ignition switch against lock housing opening on the column. Ensure park lock dowl pin enters the slot in the park lock slider linkage in the column
Install mounting screws
Install the tilt lever.
To install the lock cylinder:
Put switch in the lock position, put cylinder in the lock rotational position (but without key inserted in it) and insert it until it bottoms. Then put in the key, gently push on the cylinder and then rotate the key throughout its range of rotation.
Then reconnect the battery and check out all the features.
Roland
PS please 'rate' my answer. Thanks
