Chrysler Repair: Disarming Alarm Sysytem on 1996 Sebring Conv, ohm resistor, fuse box


Question
QUESTION: Roland --Similar to:http://en.allexperts.com/q/Chrysler-Repair-807/2008/4/SEBRING-CONVERTIBLE-1996.h

After fully charging a dead battery, using key to lock/unlock doesn't shut disarm system. When I turn the key to start, my red "alarm" light on the dash comes on, my lights "flash" and the engine starts but then dies after about 2 seconds. I will try puliing the # 5 fuse for 30 mins to see if it works after I replace it.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks. Bob

ANSWER: Did you try the passenger door lock/unlock with the key? If that doesn't clear the alarm system let me know and I can tell you what to ground at the body control module to simulate that action with a jumper.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Yes, I did try locking/unlocking and removed/replaced #5. Still doing the same thing.

What's next.

Answer
Hi Bob,
You will have to get under the dash to find the body control module which is joined to the fuse box at the left hand end, on the back side of that box. This involves removing the end cap, removing the dash center bezel, the instrument cluster hood, the steering column lower cover, the sound panel from the lower edge of the dash, and then you should see the rear of the fuse box/body control module. The body control module has about 4 plugs and you need to find the black plug with 20 pins/wires. On that plug you can use either pin 8 or pin 18 to fake out the computer as follows:
Take a jumper and a 620 ohm resistor (electronics store item, approx resistance is fine) and jump 12v to one end of the resistor and touch the other end of the resistor to a pin which you have probed into either of the wires I listed (8 is white/dark green, 18 is white/light green). That action simulates the locking motion. Then take a second resistor of 2,700 ohm or thereabouts and do the same jump, which simulates the door unlock motion. That should cause the body computer to cancel the alarm set.
8 and 18 are the wires from the left and right door locks, respectively, and those locks have exactly the same size resistors and a 12v supply which is what you are going to be replicating.
Too bad you have to scramble to get to the bcm, but good luck.
Roland
PS After you get it disarmed you can avoid the problem by never setting the alarm (don't use the power locks, the door key, or the remote to secure the vehicle) by only using the mechanical push bottons on the doors themselves to lock up. Or you can rewire from the door lock to the body computer which is presumably why you can't get the disarm to occur. Is it possible that fuse #5 is blown? That would be shown by there being no courtesy lights when you open the door.
PPS Please 'rate' my answer. Thanks
PPPS I have sent this answer three times.