QuestionAfter sitting overnight, the car takes about 30-45 minutes to get it to start. After it's started, it will start easily every time for the rest of the day. The distributor, wires, plugs, crank position sensor, cap, rotor, and fuel pump have all been replaced to no avail. I had 2 codes. The first was a PO300, which went away mysteriously for no reason, and the second one, which I still have by the way is PO306 which is misfire on plug number 6. I though about taking it to the dealership to have them test the fuel pressure to see if the fuel pressure regulator might be my problem, since I can't seem to find the proper fuel pressure tester to rent or buy. I hope you have an idea or two for me. One last thing, the vacuum tester says that internally the motor is fine. I have a reading of about 17 inches of vaccum, which according to chrysler is within spec.
AnswerHi Tony,
Hard starting without relevant code could either be a sensor that is out of spec/inaccurate but not so much as to set a code, or the egr valve may be gummed up and therefor sticking slightly ajar which when you try to start the engine cold will cause a too lean condition. So it is often helpful, if that is the case, to lubricate the valve stem and work it back and forth so as to free-up the action. If that isn't successful then you might have a dealer or good tune-up mechanic look at the operating paratmeters of the engine with a diagnostic readout box to see if he can notice any sensor/parameter which would explain the no start when cold. You might want to leave it there overnight so they can try to start it in the morning.
The egr valve service is as follows:
The egr valve is located along a small pipe that branches off from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car)and is routed to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle body). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of flange. Inside the open flange you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle. If it still won't start, then removing and cleaning the interior of the valve, or buying a new one if it seems too crudy and corroded inside, is the next step to getting the engine to start. In the absence of any code this would be my first recommendation.
Roland
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