Chrysler Repair: 01 T&C sometimes cranks up & then nothing, replaced sensors but still hv problem, chrysler town and country, exhaust gas recirculation valve

Question
I own a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/a 3.8 V6 engine.  The check engine light has been on for sometime but with no 'side effects'.  Ran a scan and said the fuel cap should be replaced- did that and light still on.  It's been sucking gas like crazy for the past 8 months. I started to have problems with the idle but only if I can to a stop in traffic. I replaced the plenum gaskets and the intake hose (which was cracked) on the back of the manifold. The problem seemed then to only get worse with it then not cranking up at all.  It sounds like it wants to start and sometimes does, but only if the idle is kept high with your foot on the gas pedal. Had another scan done and it showed a bad MAP sensor.  Replaced that with a new one and it has new spark plugs too, but still no change- if anything it runs worse.  Had a hard reset done too. Scanned again and it came up with a bad idle control sensor.  Cleaned the sensors and the air intakes/throttle...you name it. It will now crank and runs fine, but it's a hit/miss situation.  Sometimes it won't crank at all and sometimes it will.  I know it's an electrical problem, I'm just wondering if it's an electrical short in the harness somewhere or if I need the PCM replaced/reprogammed because everytime I try to run a scan, it gives a different response and seems to make things worse (i.e. not run at ALL) if I reset the system. Or maybe something entirely that I haven't thought of. Please help!!  

Answer
Hi Wendy,
About the only item that is not well noticed by the pcm is the exhaust gas recirculation valve, when it is sticking slightly ajar. When it does that, it makes for poor idling and starting. So take a look at the function of the valve stem by putting the tip of a screwdriver in the slot of the stem and moving it back and forth checking to be sure that the internal spring-action causes it to close to a dead stop. If it is sticky, then spray some WD-40 on the stem where it enters the body of the valve and work it some more.
Other than that, you have to 'go' with the fault codes, even though it seems to not have been effective yet. Let me know what current codes you get and we'll try to see what else you might try. I have the wiring diagrams so you should be able to verify that the harness connections are good if you have a volt-ohmmeter.
Roland