Chrysler Repair: Chrysler Sebring 1998 stalls and dies in high humidity, chrysler sebring convertible, spark plug wires

Question
Hello, I hope you can help me with this, Kevin. I have a  Chrysler Sebring Convertible 1998 and once it rained or is really humid outside I can be pretty sure my car either won't start or it will after several tries of starting it, and /or stalls and dies when, after stopping at a stop light or sign, wanting to go again. This is so bad  when it does that in the middle of a crossroads.. Many times people got out and pushed me out of the way. I need to do something about that, because I need my car. Have you heard about this problem before? I really hope you can tell me what's wrong with it.
Thank you in advance. Jessica

Answer
Hi Jessica,
I have a couple of suggestions:
The spark plug wires may be dried out/cracked to the extent that when they get humidity on their surface the high voltage they carry causes current to jump from one wire to another or to the engine surface which causes the spark at the plug itself to disappear. You can check that out by looking under the hood while the engine is running in a dark area on a humid evening to look for signs of electrical arcing along those 6 wires to be occuring any where between the distributor (at the rear of the engine) and the spark plugs. If so, replace the spark plug wires.
The other possibility is that the exhaust gas recirculation valve (egr) is sticking slightly ajar rather than closing when you come to a stop, or when you try to start it.  So you need to try and get it freed up and moving again so that it will be closed when the engine is shut down, otherwise it will be difficult to start and to idle.
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle.
I think this may also solve your problem and doesn't cost anything to try. So look for that small pipe that runs from the exhaust manifold toward the rear of the engine and underneath the water filler pipe you will spot the valve.
Roland
PS Sorry for the delay but I just found your question in the 'pool' to which Kevin had referred it. Please "rate" my answer and where you see the question about 'volunteer of the month' consider a 'yes' answer if this proves to be helpful. Thanks