QuestionQUESTION: Hi Kevin,
over the weekend it looks like I didn't close my trunk and ... battery is dead. Nothing special, so far. I have a Jump Start battery, which was half charged, but anyway I tried to jump start my car. When I connected it the CD-Changer, no matter that the button was in OFF position, changed some of the CDs. Strange! First attempt to start - the engine made one try to start, after which there was a strange noise, like trrrrr. I waited another 30 seconds, second attempt - same. Third attempt - same, and the jump battery was dead as well. The Engine light appeared. I put the jump battery to charge, and in the meantime my neighbor came over, so with his running engine I tried again, but ... this time there was only "trrrr" noise. Engine light ON, after about 10 seconds it starts to flash. I took my negative battery cable off, in order to reset the PCM. No difference. By chance, he had INNOVA 3030, which gave me no error (number 0), but yellow light was flashing and there was 4 flashing indicators on the I/M Monitor Status:C, CV, O, OH.
Can you advise me please what is happening and what are my options?
Thank you very much,
Mitko
ANSWER: Hi Mitko,
It may be something more than the trunk light which caused this discharge situation. There could be a short circuit in the circuits that are powered even when the ignition is 'off' (the ignition off draw circuit and its fuse) or there could be a short in the engine starter circuit (starter solenoid switch/starter motor windings). I would charge the battery fully, then ideally if you have a volt-ohm-amp meter put it in series with the battery via the - post clamp (put it between the - post and the - clamp) and observe what the ignition off draw current amounts too without having anything on(e.g. all doors closed/light off). It should be less than 100 mA after things settle down (various controllers re-cycle for maybe 10 minutes). Then remove the meter, hook up the clamp to the battery, and then try the starter and observe for action.
You didn't say where you did you jumping with the jump start battery, but if it was somewhere other than the remove battery posts or the battery itself that might be involved in the problem.
Roland
PS Sorry for the delay. I just found your question in the 'pool' to which it had been referred by Kevin.
PPS I just found your direct question to me so I just rejected that one as my answer would be the same. Another possibility is that your present battery is shorting out so that even a jump will not do. Try to charge it and see if it holds the charge (how does the voltage change with time after you remove the charger). How old is the battery? Near the end of its warranty?
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thanks for your help Roland.
I bought the car used last year, so I will assume that the battery might be the original (6 yrs old). Still, it keeps the clock settings 4 hours after the last jump start attempt. I connect the cables to the remote outlets, as it is indicated.
Now, I will charge the battery, and measure the amps. Just to be sure, putting the meter between the negative remote cable and the bolt where it should be coupled will do, right?
What about the INNOVA 3030 indication, that the car did not complete some of the self-diagnostic tests?
There were 4 of them: Catalyst, Evaporative system, O2 sensor and O2 sensor heater. What can I do to make this test to go again and eventually came out complete?
AnswerYes that is correct about the meter, but don't leave it in line with the return cable when you are going to try the starter motor because that will draw more current than the meter or its wires can safely sustain. 'Lift' all the wire off the remote attachment, then connect one side of the meter to the remote attachment and put back on the attachment any other wires, other than the fat one that goes to the battery. Then connect the other meter lead to the battery return wire.
And if it looks to be the original battery I would suspect its ability to deliver current sufficient to crank the motor. Just measure the ignition off draw current; then watch the voltage between the + and - posts (if you can conveniently reach a + post point to attach the meter to) when you start to crank it to see how much it drops from the resting voltage. Don't have it set on current when you do that, just voltage.
I don't know anything about the INNOVA so won't offer any advice. The issue at hand is to get the battery circuit proved out and the starter motor to crank and start the engine.
Roland
