Chrysler Repair: Rough Idle 2000 Cirrus LX 2.4, crank pulley, denso plugs


Question
QUESTION: Kevin, I am a heavy equipment tech that got roped into doing this car. Started with a water pump and a frozen crank pulley. What a joy that was. I got it back together and it will not idle, has great acceleration. Reviewed with cust he stated that the vehicle sat for along time with just occasionally being driven. 58303 on the clock. continued that he put new plugs and wires and the idle improved but has returned to no idle. I have 43lbs pressure and replaced EGR per TSB. Ohm out the coils and its between 12.7 13.1 across coil pack. cleaned throttle body with 3 m kit and changed fuel filter. What am I missing?

ANSWER: Hi Bob,
Have you checked for fault codes using a reader or possibly via the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch to see if the odometer shows any 4 digit code numbers. Let me know.
Roland
PS Sorry for the delay but I just found your question in the 'pool' to which Kevin had referred it.

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QUESTION: Roland Thanks for answering. I use a Solis Pro for the trucks and there are no DTCs. I unplugged the down stream o2 sensor and when cold idled good but when warmed the vehicle has major swings in idle from a low of 672 to over 900  the upstream is all over the place. TPS voltage good but IAC is all over the board also. I am trying to unplug upstream and will advise.

ANSWER: Hi Bob,
The '99 manual which is the closest to your '00 says the primary coil resistances should be 0.51-0.61 ohms, and fuel pressure should be 49+/-2 psi. The resistance between each pair of coil towers should be 11,500 to 13,500 ohms. So consider those in comparison to what you told me so far.
Roland

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QUESTION: reviewed the ohm readings again 13.65 cold possible that when warm resistance rises causing falter. also has Denso plugs in replacing with champions. I have stopped charging the cust time it has become personal.  

Answer
Hi Bob,
Those resistance reading specs are probably assuming cold conditions.
It could be you have a failing sensor of some sort, but not so badly as to set a code. For example a MAP sensor can become inaccurate enough to make a no start condition but the threshold for a code to be set has not been exceeded. You might notice that by comparing the stated barometric pressure reading with what is reasonable.
But I hope that one of the remedies you are trying will do the trick.
Roland