QuestionQUESTION: My 1995 Chrysler stratus 2.0 does not start and our local expert discovered that no current in coil.How can we solve this problem. Can i changed it to carburetor?. If yes, can i use Toyota/Mistuibushi/Mazda/Nissan engine for conversion to carburetor?. Because the parts is not available.
ANSWER: Hi Wale,
It is probably one of the rotation sensors on the engine, either the camshaft or the crankshaft because when one of those fails, the power to the coil is cut off as a safety precaution. Use your igntion key to find out which needs to be replaced: Turn the key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light which remains 'on' to see it begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the process to be sure the counts are accurate. Then write back and tell me the counts in the order of appearance and I will tell you what this says to do next.
Roland
PS Don't even think about changing anything, let us fix what is wrong. There is too much complexity to modify these engines in any way. I am sure a part can be found as this is very common.
PPS Did you see and flashing, and if so what are the flash counts?
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QUESTION: Thanks. The vehicle is working now.
Meanwhile, where is the location of the plug for temperature gauge of this model,my temperature gauge is not working.My speedometer is just dangling and what to do to resolve it.
Once again thank you.
AnswerThe engine temperature/speedometer/tachometer/fuel gauge all operate by means of digital information that comes to the cluster on a pair of twisted wires that come from the body control module which is located on the back side of the fuse box that is behind the left endcap of the dash. Are any of those working? In none, then I would check the solder joints between the cluste plug and the cluster circuit board, particularly looking at the solder joints for pins 7 and 8 of the socket. Heat those joints with a soldering pencil.
Pins 2 and 5 of the instrument cluster plug should have 12V on them when the ignition switch is in the 'run' position. 2 is the one that powers the circuitry of the gauges, and 5 just runs the oil pressure light. If none of gauges work amd you reheated the solder joints then I would check fuses 5,8,9,11,15 in the dash, and fuses 4,8,15 in the fusebox in the engine compartment as all of those are involved with the body computer.
So I don't believe your problem the temperature sensor or the distance (soeedometer) sensor, if all the gauges are not working.
By the way, how did you finally get the engine to 'run'?
Roland
