QuestionQUESTION: About two months ago, my sebring started overheating. Replaced the thermostat and everything was fine. It seemed to get to operating temp faster then before, but maintained lower overall temp on gauge. That is with the old thermostat it ran exactly in the middle, but took a few minutes to get to that point, with the new one it runs at the line under middle (middle point is between two lines on gauge) but seemed to get there much quicker then before. I could regularly smell coolant after driving it most of the time.
Anyway, today I was learning how to replace the outer tie rods... and lots of stop and go driving to get parts, then tools, then another tool, then another etc, and on the last trip out, it's redlining again. I let it sit about 5-7 minutes, maybe 10 max. Put about 1/2 gallon of water in the over flow.. Keyed to accessory and it was down to mid point, since I was only 2 blocks from home I drove it. Didn't peak but did rise while driving.
When I added water to overflow, the fluid in there appeared near clear. I had added 50/50 between buying the car in October 09 and the thermostat replacement in June 10 and when I filled it post replacement I put in pure antifreeze, then about 2/3rds gallon water. When it was overheating originally, the fluid in the overflow looked near brownish.
Any ideas? I have not checked the fan yet. There is something whitish residue around the cap and on the valve cover next to the cap, perhaps cooked water residue? I am planning to replace the cap tonight and if that doesn't solve it get another thermostat, plus try running a flush through the system.
ANSWER: Hi Michael,
Smelling coolant after driving suggests that somewhere there is a leak in the system. The pressurized filler cap may be the problem. You also might want to compare the temp of the two plastic side tanks of the radiator after the engine warms up. If you find one side to be very much hotter (the passenger side) compared to the driver side then that suggests that the crossflow pipes are partially obstructed so a good flush of the system would be worth considering.
I doubt it is the thermostat so you might want to not do that job again. Look around for anyother possible leaks in the hoses. Finally, when starting up in the morning from a cold condition watch for any excessive white smoke that has a smell of antifreeze (assuming there is still antifreeze in reasonable concentration in the system) coming out the exhaust pipe at the rear bumper which if persistent would indicate a head gasket leak. Do you hear any bubling sounds from inside the engine fairly soon after starting from cold, another sign of a head gasket leak? Also any cloudiness in the oil, similarly?
Let me know what you learn.
Roland
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---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I've seen the passenger side one, will have to look for the drivers side, don't recall seeing it. I am planning on a flush of the system soon, gonna try it myself with one of the store bought flushes.
Honestly don't recall any gurgling period. The fan is kicking in though it's once it's redlining (though it's redlining fast with the overheating). No smoke or smell that I recall, I can smell antifreeze but it's from the engine compartment.
I ran up to the store and purchased a new cap, will put it on tomorrow morning. I'm hoping that's the issue and why I can smell antifreeze from the front as well as why I see the whitish residue.
My biggest fear is that it is the water pump. As it's internal, it's expensive. I've been calling around trying to find someone who will cut me a deal on it plus the timing belt, since once you are doing the belt, the pump is about a 5 minute job but so far everyone wants the cost of both repairs.
If the cap works, I hope to do a flush on it tomorrow, just to clean the system and get new juice in there. I have read people suggest replacing the water with distilled water instead of tap. Distilled is fairly cheap, maybe a buck a gallon. Would this make any difference overall?
AnswerHi Michael,
I suppose if you have very "hard" water that using distilled water would be worthwhile, otherwise not. On the water pump, unless it is leaking the only other possibility is the impeller is compromised so that it isn't pumping as well as it could. But that is fairly rare. The water pump is a logical replacement when the timing belt is replaced. It depends upon how many miles are on the belt as to whether to do the job now. You want to avoid a failure of the belt, but to my mind doing it every 105,000 miles is a bit too often.
Roland
PS Thanks for the rating and nomination.
