QuestionQUESTION: Hi,
In January 2010 I had the fuel pump replaced in my car, had problems w/ installation for several months then car started stalling while driving. The tach and speedo would drop to zero and engine would sound like it was being choked out. It would start back up immediately but after several weeks, finally wouldn't start. Mechanic said it needed new distributor for $420. I didn't have the money to spend so I waited and replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs. I was able to start it up and drove it for 30 minutes or so. It stalled once after 5 minutes of driving but started right back up and never stalled again for the remainder of the 30 minutes. I tried to drive it several hours later and it started, sputtered, died, and won't restart. Should I go for the replacement of the distributor or is there something else I should check first.
Thanks for your time!
-Gabe
ANSWER: Hi Gabe,
There is a specific fault code for the sensor in the distributor, P0340, so if you can limp-in to an Autozone parts store where they usually give you a free code readout and you get that code as the result, then I would get the distributor. Otherwise, see what other codes come out and let me know. If there isn't an Autozone nearby, and the mechanic who recommended the distributor verfies that he got the 0340, then you have to accept that fact and ge fir the distributor. You might shop around on the internet to see if you can get it cheaper and replace it yourself.
Roland
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QUESTION: Thanks Roland,
I wasn't able to limp the car anywhere as it has yet to start back up. One problem is that the check engine light has never lit upon a stall (the light does work). I have also never been able to get a trouble code doing the on-off-on-off-on thing with the ignition. I went ahead and ordered a new distributor from the web. Prior to installation, I removed the cap and rotor from the new dist. I installed the new dist, but had a heck of a time getting the rotor back on. It is so ridiculously tight I had to use some cardboard and a small hammer to tap it on. I put it all back together and still no start. I pulled the 3 front plugs, one at a time, and checked for spark but got nothing. Is there anything else I can check or should try? I'm close to putting a sledge through the windshield... Thanks for your time!
ANSWER: A basic question or two: do you hear the fuel pump run for a second or so (coming from the fuel tank where it is located) when you turn the key to the 'run' position? And when you say you never get a trouble code, do you get a 55 or just no flashing? and is the light still coming 'on'?
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi Roland,
Yes, I can hear the fuel pump prime (or whatever it does) when I turn the key to on. All the normal dash panel lights come one when I turn the key to on(including check engine and cruise) but when I cycle through the on-off-on-off-on thing, all the lights turn off, no blinking.
Thanks again for your time!
AnswerWhen you say 'all the lights turn off', you mean all the warning lights, as well as the check engine light? The dash just goes 'dark'?
Based upon your telling me about the gauges and the lights dropping out I would believe that you may have a flakey ignition switch in the 'run' position. The oil pressure warning light should be 'on' if the engine isn't running and you have the switch in the run position, for example. Test for voltage at fuses 9 and 11 of the box under the hood while in the run position, turning the switch from off to run and start to run to be sure that you always have voltage on those when the key sits in 'run'.
