Chrysler Repair: no electrical power though battery good, fuse box, instrument light

Question
hi , i have a 98 chrysler T%26C lx 3.8 L,,,the van started to miss one day on the way home then quit,it would start for a sec and stop running,, i continued to try to start and run the van till i finely made it home , the van continue to stay this way would run a little and stop running .like i was loosing the power to continue it to run .i noticed the instrument lights to flicker or at least the ch# engine light flickering and kept hearing the fuel pump starting and stoping and clicking in the under the hood fuse box,,so i undid the  hot cable to battery because it would do this sometimes even after turning the key off and removeing it.i took off the starter and all is good ,battery is new, might be low now but is new.i cked # the 4  switches not sure on park neutral , all fuses were good .after reinstalling the start i had same thing as before flickering sounds from underhood fuse box lights in dash ect.i tryed the reset test  with trip  key switch .. got 938 ,999,,,no end of code ck.(didnt apear).,no help,,, with still haveing instrument light yet,then i read more ,i tryed the door locks anti theif .thing where i lock the van with the key button on key ring and unlocked it i had the hood up so i notice i had to hold the hood button down ,now i have nothing , no head lights no instrucment lights ect. after trying this test now nothing such as wont start ,no head lights,,no cranking ,no dash lights, no flickering ect.its really showing to be dead but battery is good...im puzzled ,any suggestions.van wont start or even try anymore seems like only power now is in battery. ty Tom

Answer
Hi Tom,
If the entire van seem dead, then you have to look at the battery wires (assuming the battery is not discharged totally). There are two wires from the -post to ground points (one on the left frame rail, one on the rear of the cylinder block) and the +post has two wires (one to the starter motor and one to power distribution box under the hood (and one from the power box connection to the alternator). I would check all those connection points and also the condition of the wires/clamps/interfaces themselves to look for loose/corroded areas where the current won't flow well. There should be some 'life' shown if all those are good.
Roland
PS I just found your question in the 'pool' to which it had been referred by the other expert. Please 'rate' my answer. Thanks