QuestionQUESTION: Ok I had some things to do, but I finnally got back to the car. I did a few tests just now and I am getting 14v on the EGR when the car starts, Nothing in AUX, and I am getting ground of BOTH wires. If this normal?
When off the ground wire fully grounds, and the 14v wire grounds to 300ohms, and the ground wire fully grounds out. In AUX they both fully ground out.
And from your question before I have tried pulling all the spark plugs to check for lean mixture and they all show the same signs.
ANSWER: Hi Ian,
I am not clear as to what AUX means. Basically when the engine is running there should always be 12V on the dark green/orange. And when idling or revving/accelerating under load there should be 12V showing on the gray/yellow because the egr should be closed under those conditions, which it will be when the voltage is 12V as seen on both wires (the solenoid is not activated). Then when the engine is running at mid-rpm's but not accelerating under load, steadily, the pcm grounds the gray/yellow and so you have 12V difference between the solenoid coil's ends and that activates the egr to open. I would not bother with reading resistances, just voltages differences as seen at the gray/yellow wire. So when you see the gray/yellow wire showing 0v the egr should be open. Let me know if that happens. If not, then the solenoid is bad or the vacuum supply to it it too weak to open the egr valve. Maybe you have a serious vacuum leak, so bad that there is insufficient vacuum to open the egr valve?
Roland
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QUESTION: Ok roland, I did the volts test.
The gray/yellow wire stays at .35 Volts no matter if it is in idle, or steady at 2-3k rpms, it does not change is voltage no matter what the engine is doing and the EGR valve does not open, no matter what. However, when I take off the solenoid connector the egr valve does open when I rev the engine. I tested this at the computer PCM Connector at Pin 40. And I do feel a decent amount of suction on the Vacuum tube.
Also I looked at my front few spark plugs again, and the #2 and #6 looked somewhat fine (Looked like alot of unburnt gas on them) and the #4 looked like someone just thrown it into a a fire, Nasty with carbon built up. My rear spark plugs when I took them out to clean them, all looked the same way as number #4, but mind you, they were in there for a lot longer then the front ones ( I bought another set spark plugs awhile ago to see if that was the issue and only replaced the front ones to see if there was a change. Then I went ahead a replaced the back later just because I wanted them all to match)
AnswerHi Ian,
Thanks for bringing me up to date, and for giving me the kind rating and most importantly the 'yes' for "volunteer of the month". Lets not to be too hard on Dad, he may not have appreciated that the wire order around the cap is not the same as the actual firing order of the engine. The Japanese cleverly re-order the internal connections in the cap so that the wires come out in a nice way to get them to the plugs in an orderly manner.
On the matter of 'volunteer of the month'. I noticed a while ago that some 'experts' tend to take advantage of the contest by getting one or a few people who send them multiple questions to always nominate them for each and every little question they answer (a guy who is expert in 'Star Wars' only has one questioner, a librarian at a community college answers grammar questions from a handful of college students as he helps them do their homework, etc.). The management of the Allexpert site was kind enough to impose a 'discount' such that when one questioner has made more than 10 nominations of a given expert in a month that any further nominations only count as half a nomination!
But the librarian is at it again this month, so I would ask you to please similarly respond to each of the questions which I answered in May when we were trying to sort out the rough idle problem. I will await your response to this question's opportunity and then I can, similar to my request earlier today, have the site give you a reminder chance to nominate me for the other questions/answers just in case you haven't saved them. If you don't want to do it, then I will not send you the 'reminders'.
Thanks for considering doing this. I hope to make it possible for all the other experts like myself, who don't have a 'captive audience' of questioners, gain recognition for our efforts.
Roland
Hi Ian,
I was wrong, the energizing of the solenoid prevents the vacuum from reaching the transducer part of the solenoid/transducer unit. When the gray/yellow is not grounded, the solenoid is energized and vacuum should flow to tranducer part of the solenoid which has a bleed valve which is subject to the exhaust gas back pressure (via the other hose from the egr base that goes back to it). When the exhaust gas pressure gets high enough it closes the bleed valve in the transducer and that is when the vacuum is allowed to connect to the egr valve. The varying amounts of backpressue produced by the engine varies the amount of vacuum that is applied to the valve. So you get varying amounts of egr recirculation as the result as needed by the operating conditions. But the system doesn't allow vacuum to operate the egr when at idle (but the manual doesn't explain exactly how that is done).
My question would be, is that second hose (from the base of the egr valve to the round top of the solenoid) connected properly and not cracked or leaking? That could be why your egr valve is not moving as it should. Also, the gray/yellow wire should sometimes show 12V (when it is not grounded by the PCM it would 'read' 12V as the result of the other end of the coil always having 12V on it). Is it possible that the gray/yellow wire is shorted to ground? Check that by removing the PCM plug and the plug into the solenoid. Also, the PCM could be faulty and is shorting the wire to ground all the time erroneously . I don't recall if you have replaced the pcm recently or not.
Those are the possibilities that I would check out.
Roland
