QuestionQUESTION: So I did take it to autozone and no codes came up, plus I did the the engine on-off-on-off on also no code came in the dash
ANSWER: Hi Terrance,
Then I wouldn't change the distributor. What are the driveability issues that you are having? It may be helpful for me to know what are the issues, specifically.
How many miles have the plugs been 'in' for. See if you see any spark plug wire arcing at idle in a dark area or at night. Let's not start throwing parts at the engine in hopes that something helps. But tell me what is wrong. When you say 'no codes' I assume that they believed they had communicated successfully with the engine control computer, correct?
Roland
PS Thanks for the rating. You can do it again if you would like to. Thnaks
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QUESTION: Yea so when I drive it for a good 3 hours it's will cut off on me and before it cuts off the engine starts to shake as if I was going on empty, like some time the engine would kind of die then catch itself and crank itself to comeback on by itself. After it turns off it won't start right away so I'll leave it for like 30 minutes 20 minutes and it will come back at on. Some time There is no warning before it shuts off no check engine nothing. It all started when I went to shell and fill my tank up with fuel 87 instead of 89 and everyone is telling there's not a huge difference
AnswerHi Terrance,
I have a three possibilities for stalling when warmed up and run for good length of time:
The gas tank cap may not be venting in enough air so a partial vacuum develops which slows the fuel pump output/pressure. Try opening and closing the fuel tank cap the next time this happens.
One of the engine rotation sensors is breaking down when it gets hot, then recovers when it cools down. Check to see if you have spark when it is in this 'no start' situation. If so, then that would confirm that possibility. But you need to wait for the engine controller to tell you which one (0320 is the crank sensor, 0340 is the cam sensor in the distributor). The rotor too could fail when it gets hot which wouldn't set a code at all so if that remains the case I would first change the rotor before doing anything with the sensors.
Finally, the egr valve may be stuck ajar. It is located underneath the oil filler tube. It has a round top with a vacuum hose, the valve body is in the pipe that comes from the front exhaust manifold to the intake manifold, and between those two parts of the valve there is a flange inside of which is the egr valve stem. It has a slot into which the tip of a screwdriver can be inserted and then used to move the stem back and forth. Spring-action should close the valve to a dead stop. If it doesn't do that firmly and quickly then spray some WD-40 on the valve stem where it enters the valve body, and work it back and forth to free-up the action.
Those are my suggestions as to how to deal with this, none of which would be too costly unless you did a code 0340 which says you need a new distributor. Then and only then would I do that.
Roland
PS Thanks for the rating. You can do it again if you choose. Thanks, and good luck with sorting this one out.
