Chrysler Repair: 98 Dodge Avenger 2.5L intermittent stall, dodge avenger, 1998 dodge avenger

Question
Roland,
I have a 1998 Dodge Avenger ES 2.5L V6 which just developed an intermittent stalling problem.
The car will start fine when cold and run for approximately 10 minutes before the engine will shut off while driving. It will crank over, but will not restart. However if you leave it sit for 15-20 minutes, it will restart and run for another 10 minutes.
The check engine light did not come on, but I checked it with a scan tool. No codes present. I have used an inductive timing gun to verify no spark at any of the plug wires. I have disconnected the 2 pin connector at the distributor and found I have 12 volts while cranking on the one wire in this connector. I have an initial 12 volts on this wire when the key to the “on” position and then voltage will go to 0.
Per a previous answer you gave, if you have 12 volts while cranking the sensors (cam %26 crank) should be good. Also I read if I have an initial 12 volt with key on and then drops off, this indicates that the ASD system is functioning correct. Did I correctly understand your comments? Are there any checks I should run on the 6 pin connector at the distributor?
Since it seems like a heat up issue, is it possible the ignition coil in the distributor is failing? Is there a way for me to check the coil?
Thank you for any assistance you can offer
Scott

Answer
Hi Scott,
The loss of spark, while still having the 12v while cranking it over, does imply that there is sufficient signal from the cam and crank sensors to satisfy the PCM and keep the ASD closed. You have correctly understood my previous answer.
I would therefor wonder about whether the rotor might be failing, so check it for continuity when the spark has dropped out and not yet recovered. The 'driver' wire for the primary side of the coil is black/gray on pin 6 of the 6 pin plug, so you might be able to sense whether it is pulsing between 12 and 0V when you are cranking it over, depending upon the meter you are using, as an rms voltage that is slightly lower than the battery voltage as seen on the single wire of the 2-pin plug. You would have to carefully probe the driver wire through its insulation to do the measurement as it won't be valid if you disconnect the plug from the distributor to test it.  
The resistance spec on the coil is 0.6-0.8 ohms on the primary winding, 12,500-18,000 ohms on the secondary winding.
Finally, you might check whether there is a noise suppression capacitor spliced nearby on the single 12v spark coil wire and mounted on the cylinder head or block. That might be breaking down when it heats up.
Please let me know what you learn.  
Roland
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