Chrysler Repair: 2004 Sebring LXi, passenger window wiring problem, gage wire, master switch

Question

Master and passenger s   QUESTION: Hi Roland,
Thank you for your help with my previous question.
(2004 Sebring LXi, Passenger window goes down only...?)

Here is what I found now:
the violet/white wire shows no continuity from end to end, Master Switch at the driver's door to the switch at the passenger's door. Master switch looked OK, so I put a separate test wire to replace this violet/white and guess what... it works :-) It does work from the Master switch and from the passenger switch, both ways, Up and Down.

So here is how it goes the signal:
at Master Switch          at Passenger Switch
Up:   Yellow – br/wht --> br/wht – brown (+), violet – vt/wht acts as a ground (3-4 in OFF)
Down: Yellow – vt/wht --> vt/wht – violet (+), brown – br/wht acts as a ground (1-2 in OFF)

So, what will happen if driver is pushing 'Up' and the passenger is pushing 'Down' in the same moment?
Will there be a 'short' because once M.Yellow will give (+) to brown and in the same time P.Yellow is giving (+) to violet?

The violet/white wire look fine on the both ends. I put some electrical contact cleaner anyways, but no difference.
Is there some special protection to this wires (violet/white and brown/white), like a special fuse which will burn if the 'short' happens?
Do I have to remove all the dashboard if I need to trace a new wire?
Is there any difference if I put a smaller or higher Gage wire?

Thank you

ANSWER: Hi Mitkon,
I think if you look at the wiring diagram in the factory manual what you find is that if the two switches fight against one another that you just have + to + or - to - but never a direct short to ground.
But let us focus on getting the violet/white reconnected. I doubt it is disconnected behind the dash, rather I suspect the wire fatigued and broke inside its insultation, either in the area of the driver hinge or the passenger hinge because that is where it get flexed the most.
Fortunately, there is a connector where you can disconnect the wire and test it at both hinge areas, located on the side of the door opening that is forward of the opening, hidden probably behind the trim panel that is under the dash and butted agaisnt the door opening. If you look at the harnesses that come out of the door and jumps across to the area in front of the door opening you may see two harnesses are involved. If you can find the two connectors for those harness you can identify the blue colored one on the driver side as being the one that connects the violet/white wire on pin 5 of the connector. Test for continuity then between the master switch violet/white on pin 11 of the switch to pin 5 at that blue connector. If it is open you will need to put in a new wire to replace the 'open' wire or maybe flex it bit by bit until you find the break spot, open it up, resolder the broken ends, and slide some insulation tubing over the slice.
If it is closed (continuous) then go to the passenger-side door opening where you will find a similar blue connecter and likewise on pin 5 the violet/white wire. Test it for continuity between the passenger switch and the connector, and if that is continuous find but then that means the wire must be broken somewhere behind the dash. If it isn't continuous from the connect to the passenger switch then as I described on the other side repair or replace the wire.
It is a 14 gauge wire, so I would not use anything with a higher number than that (higher number gauge means narrower wire).
That is how you can figure out what to do next. Good sleuthing!
Thanks for the rating and nomination. If you are really enthusiastic, you can look up my answer to your original question and there will be one last opportunity to give me another nomination.
Roland


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------


Pw Window Door Connect   QUESTION: Hi Roland,
thank you for all your instructions.
I found the connection in the door frame of the body, exactly at the rubber connection to the door. Its not easy to take it out of the frame, because of the pin in the back and the tight space to work.
Anyways, I didn't have any doubt where is the wire cut as it showed itself when I pulled the connector through the speaker opening.
Replaced the wire with an Heavy Duty extension cord, AWG 14, which turned to be a little thicker than the original one, so I had to cut 5-6 wires in order to fit into the coupling, and everything is working now :-)
Thank you again Roland.

I was wondering, is there any reason to change the other wires, or just put back everything and move forward?

Have a great day,
Mitko

Answer
Hi Mitko,
Great! We found the answer. I would put it back together without changing anything unless you have a reason to believe that another wire is compromised. I believe in leaving well enough alone. It if ain't broke, don't break it!
Roland
Thanks for the 'ratings', and the way the rules go you can even rate this answer too. and thanks for taking the photos which are very helpful to my visualizing what you were dealing with.