QuestionQUESTION: On a 96 Sebring convertible with 2.5 V6, it will start missing to the point of dying if you press pedal more than a fraction of an inch. also idles rough and RPM will drop suddenly and sometimes die, sometimes it will recover. Usually I can nurse it along and gradually get enough speed to get down the road. It is an automatic trans. and if I keep the RPMs up to 1500 while idling in nuetral, then pull it down into low and get up to 3000 to 4000 , then shift up I can get around town fairly well. Have changed gas filter, checked pressure on gas pump, put plugs and wires (but not Chrysler wires),cleaned the injectors. One who worked for Chrysler for several years says it needs a new distributor. My lack of trust in his diagnosis stems from when he rebuilt the transmission. Long story, but he had it 76 days before he got it right. And to me it acts like a fuel problem, either starving of flooding. But after reading some of your posts, I thought it might be EGR or TPS. One problem is that I live in Mexico and over time several different mechanics have worked on it while I looked for a shop that I trusted. One or more of them disconnected some vacuum hoses and did not reconnect them. So the next thing I am doing is trying reconnect them. Now my specific question, On the EGR, it appears there are two vacuum nipples on the part of the EGR that attaches to the manifold, one on the body of EGR close the where it meets manifold, and one with a tiny hole on the outer end of EGR. From pictures I found on other post, those 2 connect to another part of EGR that hangs between radiator and manifold and has an electric connection. On the other side of that piece facing to the passenger side is another vacuum nipple that I have no idea where it goes to. Also, someone had plugged with a bolt the vacuum hose coming out of the TPS. I found a plastic line running from the cannister and stopping close the throttle housing, so connected those 2, but don't know if is right. Cruise control line was also removed (I am pretty sure by transmission guy) but I can live without that. Before I proceed with further attempts at diagnosis, I felt I needed to hook up all the vacuums correctly. Then I will check clean and check EGR & TSP. I can't use the key trick to get because the digital display at the odometer quit shortly after transmission job, so Check Engine doesn't show. Sorry to be so long winded, but I wanted to share everything that might have a bearing on the problem or problems. I have been impressed by your answers on the post and will appreciate any help
ANSWER: Hi Doug,
The extra nipple on the "egr solenoid transducer" attaches to a long vacuum line that goes to the power brake booster, so try to find that hose. At the brake booster you will find a main vacuum hose that comes from the intake manifold, the line that goes to the egr transducer, and the line that goes the speed control unit. At the throttle body there is a four-way split: One line goes into the throttle body (what you called the TPS), one goes to the near by intake manifold, one line goes to the clean air intake resonator, and one line goes to the evap system duty cycle purge solenoid which is mounted adjacent to the driver side shock/strut tower and the brake master cylinder. There are two hoses on that purge solenoid: one from the throttle body split, and one going to the evap canistor located behind the right front fascia(bumper) area.
There should be a hose diagram on the underside of the hood, so look for that. I can xerox copy and postal mail you a copy of it if yours in illegible/missing.
The fault code readout on a '96 should be via the red check engine light flash/pause/flash etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat for accuracy. Start the process by turning the ignition key:"On-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time.
Until you have the vacuum lines all hooked up properly the function of the engine will be compromised as you describe. Let me know any fault code flash numbers. You can also get a code readout via the plug under the dash. But fix the vac hose situation; then disconect the battery for a minute to erase the old fault codes, then drive it some more to get a 'fresh' set of fault codes post-vac hose correction. Those would be more useful then codes you have now.
Roland
PS Sorry for the delay as I just found your question in the "pool" where the other expert had referred it. Please 'rate' my answer. Thanks
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QUESTION: I can't get a code read out from the key trick because the odometer display is blank and I think that is where the check engine light is.. All the other lights come on when I turn the key on-- ABS, Oil, Seatbelt, battery, temperature, and cruise. But they are scattered around the dash, not in the odometer display. Any idea on how to make odometer display work?
ANSWER: Hi Doug,
The check engine light is located directly next to the "0" on the tachometer dial. If the other lights are working, then the check engine bulb has burned out or been removed. I would remove the cluster and replace that light to get it to give you a code readout. Alternatively, go to an Autozone parts store or similar nationwide chain where they may give you a free read-out via plugging-in a code reader to the socket that is under the dash by the steering column. Those will be 4-digit code numbers; get the numbers and tell me what they are.
Roland
PS: Please 'rate' my answer and consider clicking on 'yes' where you see the question about 'volunteer of the month'. Thanks
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QUESTION: I am further ahead in hooking up vacuum lines than before. But you forget where I am--Mexico. Previous mechanics have either removed hoses or just cut them off at about 3 or 4 inches long. They think they are only for emission control and don't need them in MX, so I am starting from scratch.
At the brake booster, I found line from intake manifold and it was hooked up. There is a round plastic module about and inch and half coming out of the booster. It has a vacuum nipple on the side of it and it was hooked to one of two tiny vacuum hoses coming out of the firewall, which I assume is wrong from what you said above. At the end of the plastic module appears to be a larger nipple but it has a black cap (loose and removable I think) on it. These are the only 2 vacuum fittings I can find on the booster. (1) Which fitting do I put the hose from the EGR Transducer? (2) I assume I put the other hose to the speed control unit, but where is the speed control unit and what does it look like? There is a diaphram looking part between master brake cylinder and drivers side strut. It has a vacuum nipple on it that is lacking a hose. My current mechanic says it is the cruise control. (3)Is that the speed control unit? Directly below that is a approximate 3 inch long cylinder that appears to have 2 nipples for vacuum on the side and an electric on top of it. (4)Is that the purge solenoid?
There is a long line running from the evap canister along the top of fuel rail, but someone had hooked it to the vac line coming out of throttle body above the TPS. Until he did that the throttle body hose had a bolt stuck into it to plug it. I assume the long line from evap canister goes to the purge solenoid.
The hose to what I think is the clean air resonator (part of the air filter cover that connects to throttle body?) is connected. It looks like there is no other option for connecting that hose.
That just leaves the large hose coming out of throttle body above the TPS. (5) Where does it go? You lost me on the "4 way split".
There is still the 2 tiny hoses coming out of the firewall behind the distributor.
Thank you for your patience. As you can tell, I am not a mechanic, but you are teaching me enough, maybe I can tell mechanic here what needs to be done.
Thanks again,
AnswerHi Doug
This is really difficult to sort out because there are two different manuals for the '96 model year, and parts of several systems (brake, cruise, emission control, heater?) that are involved. So there is no simple way to identify of what you are speaking or to describe it. Also, I don't have a sample vehicle to look at. I would have 2 suggestions: find another '96 or Sebring convert that hopefully has not been modified and see if the owner will let you study it for information about all the vacuum lines OR have me copy all the pages that are potentially relevant and postal mail those to you. On the latter, I can make copies for 10 cents a side. If you want me to do that let me know, I will count the pages I believe might be helpful, let you know the number and the cost for copying and postage and then you can decide to do it or not.
Can you identify where the two thin hoses are going that pass through the firewall? I would usually think of those (or at least one of them) as being for operating the vacuum doors of the heating/cooling air distribution system, BUT that type of system went out of fashion in '95 with the last LeBaron convertible. So I really don't know what to think of them unless you can find them on the cabin side of the fire wall and see to what they are attched.
And you are certain the the vacuum line drawing that usually is on the underside of the hood is not still there?
It would be different if I could look at the same vehicle here, but I wouldn't know where to begin to find one, unless I went hunting at a wrecking yard. Is there any possibility of your finding a similar at a wrecking yard in Mexico.
Roland
PS: As in the past, please 'rate' my answer. Where you see the question about 'volunteer of the month, if you would once again give me a "yes", that would be very much appreciated.
