QuestionQUESTION: "I have a dodge daytona 1989 turbo 2.5. the speed idle sensor not work. when I star the car, the tacomether goes to 2,500 rpm, and does not drop, does not maintain the minimum (1000 rpm or 950 rpm), the car is automatic. How can I measure the sensor to see if this works well and what are the ranges. I also like to see from the socket if it is getting voltage or current....please I wait your reply!"
ANSWER: Hi Carlos,
Perhaps you mean the 'automatic idle speed motor' rather than the 'sensor'?
It is located on the throttle body and it has 4 wires. The chances are it is just dirty so I would suggest that you remove it and clean the tip and clean the idle air passageway on the side of the throttle body throat so that the a.i.s. motor is free to move back and forth again and control the air passageway. The two windings of the 'motor' are 1-4 pins and 2-3 pins and you should find continuity in measure between the pairs of pins. The connections are to pins 19-18 and 17-20 respectively of the engine controller 60-way plug so you could check those for continuity as well. It may be that the insulation on the wires may be melted due to heat in that area and as the result the wires are shorted together so look for that and also measure for their to be no continuity (infinite ohms) between the wires of the different winding pairs I listed above.
If you want to see if the controller has detected a problem use your ignition key:"On-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the 'power loss' light which remains 'on' to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat the process to be sure or an accurate set of flash counts. Then write back and tell me the flash counts in the order that they appeared as those will tell us what the fault codes are and therefore what to look for.
Roland
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QUESTION: "I have a dodge daytona 1989 turbo 2.5. the speed idle sensor not work. when I star the car, the tacomether goes to 2,500 rpm, and does not drop, does not maintain the minimum (1000 rpm or 950 rpm), the car is automatic. The two windings of the 'motor' are 1-4 pins and 2-3 pins and I check the continuity in measure between the pairs of pins and this is OK. The connections are to pins 19-18 and 17-20 respectively of the engine controller 60-way plug I check the continuity to the speed idle motor and this is OK. I clean al the trhotle body. after that I make this the speed idle motor NOT WORK. how to test whether it is getting voltage to the sutomatic speed IDDLE motor ?what I do? I wait your answer thanks!
AnswerHi Carlos,
Now that you have shown that the continuity is there on all 4 wires, I would believe that the motor is ok electrically. Have you removed it to look at the tip of the motor actuator pintel which is what opens/closes the idle air passageway on the side of the throttle body throat? It might be that the tip is gummy and stuck open for example. So loosen the screws and remove the AIS and clean its tip and also clean the side air passageway using a solven on a q-tip. That may free up the action of the pintel and re-gain control of the idle speed.
A last possibility is that you have a an air leak somewhere around the edge of the intake manifold. If the idle speed problem is not present until the engine warms up, then I would suspect such a leak. The engine controls use the oxygen sensors once the engine is warmed. If that sensor thinks the mixture is too lean (say as the result of a leak of air into the manifold) it will compensate by increasing the gas input which then causes a high rpm. That you could test by carefully squirting starter fluid in very small bursts around the gasket of the intake manifold while the engine is idling to see if you deteect a change in the idle speed at one spot or another. If so, lool for a leak there. Be very careful not to use much fluid as it is very flammable and may start a fire.
The only way to know how the AIS is actually positioned is by using the Chrysler Diagnostic Readout box II (DRB II). It will tell you where that AIS control is positioned and you should notice a change in the "position" reading under different circumstances as the engine warms up.
Another clue of whether the AIS motor has a problem would be if you have a diagnostic fault code #25, that would be indicative of the motor having a problem. Otherwise not. Have you tried to get a fault code using the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time? Then count the number of flashes of the check engine light before each pause. Then tell me the counts in the order of appearance. The last two flash groups will always be 5 in each. Repeat the process several times to be sure of an accurate set of flash counts.
Roland
