QuestionFirst, I am absolutely amazed at your knowledge, commitment and generosity. You are my hero.
My issue is identical to the one below, even the same year and make of minivan. Unfortunately, as the weather has gotten worse, the time delay until the electrical components begins working has lengthened to the point that they were not coming on at all during two rainy days. Then as I was making an appointment with a mechanic, a sunny day caused the system to work again.
When the key is turned to the accessory position, the radio, climate controls, windows work fine. When the ignition is turn on only those components just mentioned turn off, almost with a half a second delay. They remain off for a brief period on humid days and just recently completely off on rainy days. I looked at the ignition without taking it out and did not see any obvious corrosion. I checked the battery and fuse box, even pulling wire harnesses off the fuse box to see any problems with no luck.
I was wondering if you still have the return address of the person you replied to below to see if she was ever successful in determining the cause.
I did check the ignition key lock cyclinder to see if it was locking up and it appears to be fine. Of course, the weather is nice now and I am having no problems so I must wait again to see if my cleaning the cyclinder works. Because the electrical system seems so sensitive to humidity, I was thinking of a short in the engine compartment. Does that make sense?
Thanks.
Brian
Expert: Roland Finston
Date: 10/18/2005
Subject: 01 Town and Country AC/wipers/radio/windows
Question
Almost every time I turn my '01 T & C minivan on, my radio, all climate controls (ac, heater, fan), power windows, and rear vents don't work for a variable amount of time. They all come on after van is on for anywhere from 5 seconds to 30 seconds. These things work fine when the key is in the 'ON' position but when start up van they shut off.
This problem started last summer when I was at the Jersey shore. It was very humid and there was a bad rain storm the night before. Originally, this problem only occured after a rain storm but now is every time I turn on van.
The only exception to this is if the van is started shortly after being turned off, all these things come on immediately.
The dealership has done 2 things in an attempt to fix problem. The ignition switch was replaced last fall and I just spent $400 for a new control module. Neither of these fixed the problem. I don't want to put any more money into things that aren't going to fix this problem!
Any suggestions? Thanks.
Get the answer below
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Answer
Hi Sharon,
I had one other idea:
Is it possible that the ignition key lock cylinder is 'hanging up' in its function, meaning that it does not return positively to the 'run' position after you try and successfully start the car? If the were corrosion or rust in the lock cylinder its return motion might be delayed for a few seconds. Try spraying a little WD-40 or other spray lubricant around the circular rim of the the lock cylinder with the tip or the straw inserted in the groove to attempt to get some lubrication into the interface between the cylinder and the hole into which it is fitted.
If that "return" to the run position were not positive, then that would explain the delay in the function of all the items that you are having trouble with. They are all switched off by the ignition switch when you move the key to the start position (so as to have as little other draw on the battery when you run the starter motor), so they won't start working again unless the key gets truly back to the 'run' position. That is why I believe the problem is with the key lock mechanism or the ignition switch which is attached to the key lock cylinder mechanism.
Let me know if this works.
Thanks,
Roland
Hi Sharon,
While I don't have the full wiring diagrams for the '01 line of vans, I can't believe that there was any reason to change the powertrain control module (if that was the module that was changed, or was it the body control module perhaps which might make a little more sense but probably not much more sense). At that price I would go back and ask them to replace the old module because they could have verified that it was not going to fix your problem. That appears to be incompetence rising to the level of small claims court.
The ignition switch replacement made much more sense, but I would really wonder if they actually did it because the behavior problem certainly implicates that switch, or if not the switch at least one of the wires attached to the switch. This is the sort of problem that is amenable to trouble shooting with a voltmeter and a wiring diagram because when three separate systems fail together it has to be something basic such as a common voltage source (via the ignition swotch, or a common ground point (but why just starting the engine would affect a ground point unrelated to the engine itself is beyond my imagination). But if you simply put a voltmeter on each of the three or so wires at the ignition switch that go "on" in the run position, and verify whether they are indeed powered when the delay is present should tell you if it is the switch, and if not, then looking to where those wires supply voltage sources of the delay would not be difficult.
So unless there was another reason to replace the "control module" I think that was an unnecessary replacement because none of the systems that are involved as far as basic powering is concerned is mediated by a control module as far as I know. I would ask them to show you how the module controls the fan blower, or the radio, or the power windows. Those systems as far as basic functioning go are not dependent on the body control module and certainly not the powertrain module.
If you get the money back, I'd try a different shop that specializes in electrical issues and also would have a wiring diagram for the '01 van.
Roland
AnswerHi Brian,
While I don't have the wiring diagrams for the '01 T & C the systems that are affected are fairly stable so I think my '98 diagrams should apply. In that setup there is a section of the ignition switch that supplies the radio, power windows, and body control module (one of several to that unit which plays a role in the climate control, no doubt). So my belief is that the specific section of the ignition switch is making good contace in the accessory position but not when the key is in the run position. You might look for a black/white wire of pin 8 of the gray plug at that switch and see if, when you have the problem, there is no 12V present in the 'run' position, but that it is present when you have the switch in the 'acc' position. That would prove my theory.
I would try squirting some electrical contact cleaner in the switch from a spray can with a straw applicator to see if you can improve the contact conductivity and thus save on having to buy a new switch. But that is the only explanation I can give for this problem.
Thanks so much for you positive evaluation of my efforts. It makes it worthwhile.
Roland
