QuestionQUESTION: Hello Roland. Me again with a 'new' question, since the Web page indicated that I had too many follow-up questions.
I did the diag test again and it is now clear to me that after the test, if there is only the Rear Wiper LED flashing #Intermittent LED does not flash#, that means that everything is fine from the Diag tool. Am I correct on this or have I misunderstood the result? I have read from another Web site that the fast blinking Intermittent LED on some of the Levels can successfully be altered by moving the Mode switch or the temperature control bars. So far so good. Am I looking in the right direction.
ANSWER: Hi Francis,
You are correct that when it is only the rear wiper flashing at the conclusion of all the 'action' that there are no detected problems. Hooray? I hope so.
I did copy and put in the mail yesterday afternoon the 8 pages of text and one wiring diagram pertaining to the 'doors'.
Roland
PS: Thanks for the "yes" which I see...I have you well trained!
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Roland,
I still have some key questions I hope you can help me with through this process.
Let’s summarize what has been observed and done so far. I thought of sending a compressed video clip of the test but I am not sure how large file can be. Hopefully, the following description will do:
· Plymouth Voyager 1998 3.3litre, HVAC with two temperature controls for driver %26 passenger
· Problem may have started when I replaced the door/trap actuator under glove compartment (was clicking every time the car was started or temp control changed). At the time, I did start the engine in order to have voltage to the actuator I was holding in my hand. The intent was to align the moving arm in the same position of the previous actuator. In many instruction caution statement, this is often mentioned not to do so or the actuator will become out of calibration. Would calibration resolved this issue?
· No LED flashing on HVAC from panel upon ignition cycle. I understand that this mean there are no Level 1 code present.
· Did numerous Diagnostic tests and when completed only got the RearWiper LED blinking once, and no blinking from the Intermittent LED. It appears that this mean that the diag test result shows that calibration is completed and system is OK.
· By depressing on the Washer button, I change the diag level and got the following reading on the Intermittent LED. I also took some action as suggested below (excerpt from another Web site):
o Level 2 – fast flashing. Moved Mode selector from panel to defrost to panel. Flashing speed decreased then increased as expected.
o Level 3 – regular flashing. Moved temperature levers (two together) from Cold to hot to Cold. Flashing increased then decreased as expected. Note that when levers were moved individually, the Driver lever change in temperature did not affect the flashing speed. Is this an issue?
o Level 4 – 4 blinks, pause then 7 blinks. In some literature, it is suggested that blinking before and after the pause determine tenth and units, such as error code 47. Is this a fact? In today’s test, I got 3 blinks, a pause and 6 blinks. Is this Code 36? I did not warm up the car today for the test. Temperature outside today is about –3degreesC or 25degreesF.
o Level 5 - regular/fast flashing. I moved the temperature controls towards the heat just for curiosity. The driver lever triggered an increasing flashing rate while the passenger level did not create any changes in flashing rate.
(instruction excerpt from another Web site)
IN-VEHICLE CALIBRATION 1. Mode and blend door calibration compensates for mechanical differences in actuators, heater unit and its linkages. In-vehicle calibration is entered using switches and buttons on Heat Vent Air Conditioner (HVAC) front panel. If rear wiper and intermittent LEDs flash simultaneously when ignition is turned on, actuators have not been calibrated or a previous calibration failure occurred. Diagnostics will always occur during calibration. 2. To enter calibration/diagnostics test, set parking brake. Start and warm engine to normal operating temperature. With engine idling, turn blower switch to high. Turn mode switch to panel (air comes from instrument panel outlets). Move temperature lever to full cold. Press and hold rear wash and wiper buttons for 5 seconds (until all LEDs illuminate). Rear wiper and intermittent button LEDs will flash alternately during calibration test. 3. After approximately 60 seconds, if only wiper button LED is flashing, calibration is successful and system is okay. If wiper and intermittent LEDs are flashing, see DIAGNOSTICS under TROUBLESHOOTING for diagnostic procedures. 4. To exit calibration/diagnostics test at any time, press rear wiper button or cycle ignition off and then on. Test will automatically terminate 15 minutes after calibration/diagnostics is entered. TROUBLE SHOOTING DIAGNOSTICS 1. If wiper and intermittent LEDs are flashing simultaneously, perform calibration test. See IN- VEHICLE CALIBRATION under ADJUSTMENTS. If wiper and intermittent LEDs are flashing alternately, level one codes are present. Wiper LED indicates display level. Each time wash button is pressed, display will cycle to next level. 2. One flash indicates fail codes. A 2-flash sequence indicates mode potentiometer test. A 3-flash sequence indicates blend potentiometer test. Intermittent LED indicates failure code (level 1) or potentiometer position (level 2 or 3). See FAILURE CODE VALUES table. 3. Temperature and mode potentiometers can be tested after calibration is complete by pressing wash button and cycling to level 2 or 3 as displayed by wiper LED. Press wash button once, wiper LED will begin a 2-flash sequence. Move mode selector switch from panel to defrost. Intermittent LED flash rate should decrease. Move mode selector switch from defrost to panel. Intermittent LED flash rate should increase. 4. Press wash button again, wiper LED will begin a 3-flash sequence. Move temperature selector lever from cold to hot. Intermittent LED flash rate should increase. Move temperature selector lever from hot to cold. Intermittent LED flash rate should decrease. NOTE: Whenever heater control panel, heater unit, doors or door actuators are replaced, actuator calibration/diagnostics test must be performed. WARNING: To avoid injury from accidental air bag deployment, read and follow all SERVICE PRECAUTIONS and DISABLING %26 ACTIVATING AIR BAG SYSTEM procedures in AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEM article in the ACCESSORIES/SAFETY EQUIPMENT section.
(end of excerpt)
So the following questions remain:
· Why did the calibration process not resolve the uncalibrated actuator?
· Should the test on the temperature control on the Driver side (Level 3) allow the flashing to increase then decrease?
· For Diag test Level 4 – Is there a code 47 ? and Code 36?
· If the actuator is fine, why don’t have I enough heat when the temperature of the motor is fine, the heat to the radiator is fine, the new engine thermostat that was just replaced works as well as the previous one?
· Is it time for me to go to the dealership for another or different diagnosis? This is a good but old car. I am not sure that I want or must pay $500-700 to have it repaired.
Note: By the way if you provided your mailing info with the doc you sent me, I want to pay you back at least for the photocopies, postage and gas.
Please advise. Francis
ANSWER: Hi Francis,
I suspect that when the pages that went out on Saturday afternoon reach you and you have a chance to study them, all will be clear. I suspect that you will find that the 47/36 are not codes but reading of the air temperature, but of course check me on that. The details which you no doubt have spent a great deal of effort communicating to me are overwhelming. It seems to me that the chances are greater that I will misinform you by trying to respond based on what I can understand and what I can relate them to on the manual pages so I would like to defer to the arrival of the pages for your own review first.
Let me give you a couple of thoughts: If as you said originally the actuator that you were changing out and which operated while disconnected is the one under the unit near the blower, then that appears to be the recirculation/fresh air intake door. I don't believe that actuator is involved in the calibration/diagnostics to any appreciable degree (I see no codes pertaining to it). So that may be a concern you can set aside.
Going back to basics, and this may have been overlooked from the start when your original question didn't get through and we began to focus on the diagnostics from the start: have you checked to see whether the incoming and outgoing heater hoses as touched in the engine compartment at the firewall, feel equally hot? If they are equally hot then the flow of coolant through the core is good. On the other hand, if the return hose is quite cool compared to the input hose, then either the heater core is clogged up or the water pump is not able to force the coolant through the circuit due to obstruction in hoses/core/supply pipes or due to the coolant level being low, or possibly air trapped in the circuit or the pump not being as powerful as it should be. So please evaluate the comparitive hose temperatures now so that issue can be set aside. Back flushing the circuit with a garden hose water supply would be the first remedy to try if you have that situation.
Thanks you for the offer to cover the expense, but it was not so great as to warrant your doing that. On several occasions other questioners to whom I mailed material have sent me back more than my costs out of a wish that I would be compensated for the freebies, so I am doing fine as far as that goes.
Roland
PS: Please consider doing the rating/nomination routine again...I am gaining ground!
PPS: Oops, You anticipate me again I now see. Wonderful.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: As you suggested - back to basics. I went to the garage this morning, and it appears that the two hoses to the heat core are not the same temperature. Next step is to use CLR to clean the inside then we will see.. Hoping for a not too expensive resolution. Francis
AnswerHi Francis,
I think you are 'on' to something! I think that may be the answer. I hope so as you have spent so much effort on it.
Roland
I suspect that you have already done what i would otherwise ask you to do. My competitor appears to be pulling all the tricks he can muster to win the recognition, which makes me so appreciativ of your help in return.
