QuestionQUESTION: Hi Roland,
I have a 2001 T&C LXI. The passenger power sliding door does not work. When any of the buttons are pressed , it unlocks and releases but the motor is not functioning to slide it open or closed. The drivers side works ok. Not sure how to test this out.
Also the interior overhead console lights do not turn on, I could not determine which fuse controls them. I assume it is located under the hood.??
The drivers power window does not work , it just moves a tiny bit, i believe that the motor is not good as i did take it apart, So i think that just needs replacing.
Thanks for all you do.
Tom
ANSWER: Hi Tom,
That door system is powered by a module that operates both doors and the latches with a single fuse so it isn't a fuse issue. It is either a motor or wire issue, or possibly a hall effect sensor associated with the door position detection. The motor is accessible by removing the upper trim (5 push-in) and the main trim (13 puah-in) after removing screw from pull cup. The motor has a flexible drive that detaches, a plug, and fasteners which when removed allow the moor to be removed. Pins 3 and 6 of the motor plug (tan/brown, tan/orange) drive the motor so you could try to test that by jumping 12V to it.
If by the lights in the console you mean the illumination bulbs on the consle, it could either be the bulbs proper or there is a diode in the switch section that may have blown, or the switch itself, so take a look around the switch area. The fuses power also the bcm and many other things so that is probably not the cause.
On the window, check the track for binding up, if the motor 'grunts'.
I have an '02 manual which appears to apply to the '01 so let me know if you want any details which I can xerox and postal mail to you.
And you are welcome.
Roland
Roland
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QUESTION: Hello Roland,
I did examine the motor, it tested out good for the sliding door. When i put it back in it still didn't work until i started hitting things inside the door. I think when i moved a circuit board which was inside a plastic box in the door , then it worked , or maybe it was something i touched near the rear locking components at the rear of this door, i"m not sure , it just started working for me. However , now it seems that it is sporadic. Sometimes it will not open by pressing the button but if i open it manually all the way until it is latched , then by pressing the button it will close under it's own power. So, I'm not sure what element is causing these symptoms...
When i examined the over head console in the front of the van, i discovered that it had melted and burnt some of the wires that plugs into this console. This console has 2 wire plugs , 1 is for the read outs for the computer which displays the distance traveled mpg etc. and that was working ok ., The other plug was fried into the unit and also the circuit board was burnt as well, Not sure what caused that. But that explains why the 2 push lights in the front ceiling and the 2 vanity lights did not work i guess. I suppose i just need to replace this console and hope it does not do it again. Do you know what fuse controls this component and what would likely cause this. I did not own the van when this occurred.
Thanks
tom
ANSWER: Hi Tom,
The bulb switch is supplied by a wire from the 'ash/receiver lamp' feed which apparently itself gets power from the body computer, but I haven't located the feed in question. Let me know where that lamp might be and maybe we can get an fuse assignment. It is an E15 wire and that E is assigned to dimming lamps circuit-types. In any case if it is burnt at the switch then that is probably the area in question. Other than the LED at the switch the only possible shorts would be at the off-on switches and the bulb sockets. The current for the bulbs flows thru the LED to the bulbs, then thru the switches and then to ground.
The sliding door module has two plugs (8-pin and 20-pin). The motor is on pins 2 and 3 of the 8-pin and the 'hall effect device' signal shown as being in the motor is on pins 1 and 17 of the 20-pin, and finally the motor clutch control in on pin 7 of that same plug. It is possible to get a digital fault code readout from the system using a DRB III available at the dealer which may explain what is going on. If the motor spins but the door doesn't move that is a clutch issue. The hall effect sensor in the motor may be there to report a jamb up of the door motor for safety purposes, but it isn't explained in the manual what exactly it does and how its information is put to use. There is a safety system that senses an obstruction to movement and reverses the direction of the door in that happenstance, but again not explained as to how.
Roland
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi Roland,
I noticed that there seems to be missing 1 fuse and 1 relay under the hood. the fuse is labeled under the cover as " 40 A RG HDLP WASHER"
& the missing relay is " RG HEAD LAMP WASHER RELAY" I don't know if they were taken out because of the burned wires in the overhead console??
You asked about "where the lamp might be? .. The lamps that don't work are the 2 within the console which are pushed to turn on / off. All the burnt wires occurred where the plug goes into the console, not at the bulbs. The plug was actually melted along with the wires leading into the plug. The light sockets looked ok. I can't tell which fuse covers this and i assume that vanity mirror lights are on the same circuit.
Since the computer read out works in the console I was even considering hard wiring the lights instead of replacing the whole console if I could figure out how to get current to the light switches, but that looks unlikely..
On the power sliding door problem, it works for awhile then stops. I noticed that with the door cover off, If i take a hair dryer and simply blow hot air onto the components that are located in the rear of the door( this does not include the motor or circuit board, located elsewhere) for about 3 minutes , then the door will open and close as it should until it cools down and then stops working. So, I don't know if that gives you any clues as to what i could look at that might react to heat in this fashion? I would guess that this would eliminate a short in the wiring at least.
Thank you for your knowledge.
Tom
AnswerHi Tom
The missing relay and fuse was used in the deluxe export model for a headlamp washer system, which you probably never had.
The power for the vanity and overhead bulbs appears to come from the body control module and that gets its power from the underdash box, but I haven't figured out that circuit fully yet.
I suspect the problem that caused the melting happened due to short in the wires that you see locally.
The switch for the lights in the o'head console is shown in the drawing to get power from a 'local PWM' (power module?) built into the console on pin 8 but no details about the specific fuse that powers the PWM.
On the door, I would believe that is caused by an intergrated circuit component that is failed/failing on the door control module proper, if that is what you are blowing the air upon. These solid state devices can be prompted to temporarily recover by heating/cooling externally and in fact that is often how the specific ic is identified for replacement. I don't show any details for the module, but if you open it up you could probably heat each ic with a soldering gun on its surface and thus id the bad item and if it has a number on it that can reference to an industry number then just get a new IC and put it in.
I will try to ID the failed fuse, but the alternative would be to check all the fuses in the power box. I'll let you know of any progress.
Roland
