Chrysler Repair: 2000 sebring 2.5l no power, 4 digit numbers, crank sensor

Question
QUESTION: I have a 2000 sebring convertible with a 2.5l engine. The car idles fine but has absolutely no power. Once the car gets above 2500 rpm's it seems to run "better" I was told by one dealer that I needed to replace the timing belt due to low vacuum (map sensor reports approx 16 at idle) but after replacing timing belt there was no change. Repair shop says all sensors are reporting correctly but when leaving from a stop timing advance reports anywhere from -2 to +3....and until the timing advances the car barely moves. The distributor is new, the crank sensor is new, the pre cat O2 sensor is new, and the car was driven without exhaust connected to verify that catalytic converter wasnt plugged. As a "kicker" to the whole mess the engine was pulled (had 184000 miles on it) and replaced with a different engine (approx 57000 mile)and the engine changed nothing. I was also told that fuel system pressure check was fine. Not sure where to turn as it seems that the ECM is the only thing left. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

ANSWER: Hi Steve,
Just in case, do you have any fault codes stored in the PCM memory? "On-off-on-off-on and leave on" using the ignition key. Then watch the odometer window to see if the mileage is replaced by any 4-digit numbers prefixed with a P. Let me know either way and we'll go from there. Replacing the engine may not replace the part that is causing the problem unless you go through the list of what came with it and what is still in use from the original set up.
Roland

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QUESTION: There are not any codes and never have been any. When the engine was replaced the distributor was not there so I replaced it with a new one.  The O2 sensor was out in the open so I put in a new one. The map sensor was missing on the new manifold so I purchased a new one of those as well. Everything else came with the "new" engine. That leaves the fuel system, the ECM, the post cat O2 sensor, the catalytic converter, and original transaxle as parts that were there previous to the engine change.

ANSWER: Hi Steve,
I assume that there was evidence for some sort of communication in response to the fault code requst, correct? If not, disconnect the battery for a minute and then request codes and see if you get a 1684 code. If not, then I would believe the ecm is bad.
About the only part that is not well monitored that I can suggest you look at is the egr valve. Make sure that the stem moves freely and closes tight against a stop by means of the internal spring-action. Were that not the case you would have a too lean mixture at idle and low rpm's and the ecm might not detect that when it checks it out. There is a slot on the valve stem that you can move the stem with using the tip of a screwdriber, and then if it seems sluggish spray the stem with WD-40 where it enters the valve body.
Please let me know if anything comes of that or whatever else you ultimately discover.
Roland

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QUESTION: I missed the EGR valve. That is new also. I replaced that when the new engine was installed. I wanted to replace everythine that was on the engine that could be suspect from the original. I just went out to read the codes (I had the battery unhooked earlier today to replace starter) and no codes are present. The only code (and service engine soon light came on) I have seen recently was a transmission error due to the fact I forgot one connector on the transmission.

Answer
Hmmm,
It should have set a 1684, but at least it did 'see' the trans code. I guess except to drive it with a more sophisticated reader on board and look for out of normal responses, I can't give you any other idea. Maybe verify the timing marks between the crank mark and the cam sprocket marks, just in case. Have you checked the compression?
Roland