Chrysler Repair: 97 idles fine but dies in drive or reverse, o2 sensors, cam sensor

Question
I have a 97 sebring convertible, JX 2.4L. I have experienced many of the common sebring problems. My tach and odometer rarley work, but do come on occasionally. Currenlty, my seatbelts have decided to remain in the retracted position most of the time. I occasionally the seat belt works, but when this does happen, it will often start retracting on me while I am driving, which is not fun being pinned to the seatback as you can imagine.
Currently, my major prob is getting the car to actually drive anywhere.

I have Replaced my O2 sensors and Cam/Crank sensors multiple times, in the past this has usually solved the stalling problem. Car has been running great until a new probs started a few weeks ago. took the car in for new tires, and was told that the serpentine belt needed to be replaced due to fraying. I had that done, and 2 days later the car stalled and died on me while driving. I was unable to restart, left me stranded. check engine light did not come on initially. Went to restart the car the next day, check engine light is on. Run the codes, comes up with Cam sensor. So even though it's prob only been a year, I change the cam and crank sensors again. Car now starts and idles great. seems like you should be able to just drive along on your merry way without any issues. But as soon as you shift into drive, or reverse, car hiccups and dies. Today I had a mechanic look at it  he gave up after 4 hrs and now I am not sure what to do next. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Answer
Hi Mickey,
I wonder if the torque converter lock-up clutch is engaged when it shouldn't be? That would produce the sort of behavior you describe. The clutch is controlled by hydraulic valves in what is called the valve body of the transmission. Just in case, check the level of fluid in the transmission and if needed only use ATF+4 but don't overfill it.
The valve body can be removed without removing the transmission in order to service the t/c clutch control valves. But you would want to have this diagnosed and repaired by a competent independent transmission shop (not a shop that is franchised to sell you a rebuilt transmission). Such a shop would have a better idea from experience if the problem could instead be the clutch itself (located in the torque converter) which is at fault but that would require removal of the trans to repair).
The clutch being engaged would be similar in behavior to popping the clutch on a manual transmission set up, so if it feels like that it would be a reasonable explanation.
Roland