Chrysler Repair: 2001 chrysler town and country battery light on and high idle, chrysler town and country, coolant temp

Question
QUESTION: I have a 2001 town and country that has been idling rough,
blowing black smoke, and just not driving right. When i
start it the battery light comes on and stays on. I replaced
the alternator with a rebuilt one and replaced the spark
plugs. now the fuel gauge wont move and its still not idling
smooth. after driving a few miles the battery died. i
charged the battery to full and it died again after going
less than 2 miles. even though the battery was fully charged  
the light remained on the entire time. What should I do
next? i also have the following codes after replacing the
alternator
:1598,1478,1684,0622,0122,0123,0118,1389,0106,1496

ANSWER: Hi Alisha,
All the codes are either related to the electrical power supply to the PCM (engine computer) or the control of the alternator field coil which determines the charging voltage that it puts out...and the rest are all sorts of problems with the voltages of many of the engine sensors (MAP,coolant temp, throttle position, 5V sensor supply voltage, battery temp,AC pressure sensors).
To me this, plus the discharging, suggests that there is an issue with the wire that controls the oscillational grounding of the alternator field coils, such that the voltage output of the alternator is too low (and maybe sometimes too high?). I would start by checking that the brown/gray wire on the alternator is connected to the pin 8 of the PCM plug, and also check that it is not shorted to ground. Remove it at both ends and to check for shorting to ground.
Then check that you have 12v on the brown/white wire also at the same plug on the alternator where the brown/gray wire is located, when the engine is running. That 12V comes from the automatic shutdown relay in the integrated power module (fuse and relay box under the hood). If the engine runs, then that relay should be putting out 12V when it is running. It is possible that fuse 16, 25 amp, right behind that relay has a crack in it which may be causing the voltage output of the relay to be intermittent so look closely at that fuse for subtle crack.
You might also try switching that relay for another one in the box that has the same part number but is for something less important than the autoshutdown function and see if that corrects things.
One of the codes says for some reason (one of the possibilities I speculated just above) the voltage from the ASD is also not getting to the plug on the PCM which is at pin 6 of that module. So check that same brown/white wire that is connected between the alternator, the pin 6 of the pcm and pin 3 of the 10-pin blue plug on the back side of the integrated power module to be sure they are connected together and that the wire is not shorted to ground.
Once you get the charging circuit straightened out the sensor voltage codes and the poor running of the engine should be solved.
Roland
PS Any relevant history to this problem? It is strange.


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Roland,

Just a little history. I had trouble with my headlights
staying on at the same time turns out it was the FCM. Had
that replaced new, then the problem started again and had it
replaced again. Got a new battery in February but the
alternator was going bad. so now im at this problem. The
rebuilt alternator was put in and thats when the battery
started draining. prior to the rebuit alternator the van
still idled high and the fuel gauge was flat but the battery
didnt drain. could the alternator still be bad?  i dont
really have anyone to check for shorts in the wire. Should i
get the alternator tested or maybe a new one?

Answer
Hi Alisha,
I would believe that either the field coils of the rebuilt alternator are "open", the wire from one end of the field coil to the pcm is open, or the 12V power line to the other end of the alternator field coils is open, or there is something strange about the autoshutdown relay perhaps not putting out the 12V that is needed to operate the field coils so the alternator will put out current. If you can get a free test of the alternator, surely, do that. Otherwise you can either buy a volt-ohmmeter and check out the items I listed earlier or have a shop do the troubleshooting. It depends upon your budget and you inclination to do it yourself. But at least if there is a warranty on the alternator see if the warrantor will test it for free.
Roland