QuestionQUESTION: I have a chrysler conv jxi 97. while driving it would cut off, and usually start back up after a min. it did this for about 3 weeks, now it wont start at all, when you turn the key it makes no sound at all. I charged the batt and put the top and windows up but tired to pull out of the driveway and it cut off half way down the road. And this time did not come back on. 1 mechanic said its the battery and 1 said its the alternator. what do you think?
ANSWER: Hi Darlene,
I don't think it is either. If the starter will crank the engine over then it isn't the battery. Only if the alternator (charge) light was on, after you changed the battery, would I suspect the alternator. Rather, my belief is that one of the two engine rotational position sensors is failing (failed). This sort of behavior is what they do when they are wearing out. They fail when they warm up, then recover upon cooldown.
There is a fault code no doubt stored in the memory of the computer. It may be possible to get that code using the ignition key:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine lignt, which remains 'on', to begin to flash, puase, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat the procedure to assure an accurate flash count.
I say "may" because '97 was a borderline year between when you could get the codes that way vs. having to get a code reader plugged into a socket under the dash by the steering wheel. So if you don't see any flashing you will have to get it to a shop for a readout, which should cost about $40, or even for free at an Autozone parts store if one is near you.
If I am correct and it is one of sensors, the code will say which one. On the 2.5L V-6 engine that is important to know because they cost quite a bit different from one another. So let me know the flash counts, in the order of appearance, or the fault code if you go that route and we'll go from there.
Roland
PS Use the 'thank/rate' tab below to get back to me with the results, without having to wait for for me to be 'available' to take a question. There is a space for comments. I would appreciate an evaluation and possilby a nomination for 'expert of the month' if you believe I merit it.
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QUESTION: I will need to charge the battery again before i am able to do this. But I am glad you suggested this. So I will not be paying for something that will not fix the problem. I will let you know sometime tomorrow, thank you so very much.
AnswerHi Darlene,
You are welcome. I didn't understand that when you said it cut off that it might be the battery failing, since you just replaced it. I wonder if one of the clamps on the battery might be loose, so you might check that by hand. It should not discharge so badly if it is new, unless there was a great deal of attempted starting with no success or possibly there is a short circuit that is draining off the battery charge while it sits (perhaps the trunk light or the glove box light or an underhood light is staying on?). I would be inclined to disconnect the battery clamps and then put the battery charger on the battery overnight or even for a day to be sure to get the battery charged. Then try for the fault codes. Then try to start it if you need to go to a shop or Autozone to get the code readout if the check engine light doesn't work. While driving make sure that the light that has the symbol of the battery above the speedometer is not illuminated (which would be a sign of a charging problem, such as the alternator or its wires or the computer that controls that process). If it is 'on' brightly it may be there is a short that will drain the battery quickly.
In removing the battery clamps, always begin by un-bolting the clamp that is on the - post, then the + post. And when re-attaching, do the + post first, then finish by attaching the - post.
Roland
PS Feel free to use the 'thank/rate' to get back. And thank you for the evaluation and nomination.
