Chrysler Repair: 1995 Cirrus no start, screwdriver blade, crank pulley


Question
my cirrus will not start .it died on my way home .the starter works.it has fule.it has spark.the codes do not give any clue to why it does not work.

Answer
Hi Robert,
Are you getting a 55 code at least to prove that the code readout function is working? I assume this is 2.5L V-6, correct?
If you indeed have fuel and spark, then it either has to be mixture, timing, or compression.
I would take a look at the egr valve to be sure that it isn't stuck ajar. The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle.  Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine.
You might have a bad MAP sensor but not so bad as to set a code, so keep that possibility in mind.
You might want to take a look at the timing belt if you can do that without pulling of the crank pulley etc. that is involved with changing the belt. Perhaps remove the screws on one of the timing covers and gently wedge it enough to see if the belt looks ok or not. How many miles are on the engine since the timing belt was new?
Finally, doing a compression check on some of the 3 front cylinders is something you could do without too much effort. The values should be around 100 psi (but that is with all the plugs removed, so it will be lower than that) and +/-25% of one another.
Rolnnd
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