Chrysler Repair: 2004 Chrysler Sebring Sedan wont start, automatic door locks, 2004 chrysler sebring


Question
QUESTION: I purchased a used 2004 Chrysler Sebring 2 1/2 weeks ago. It has been working fine up until I tried to start it today. The last time I successfully started the vehicle was four days ago. It does not start at all and the electrical doesn't function (the lights don't turn on upon opening door/automatic door locks won't work) However, when the key is inserted into the ignition, the ignition turns forword, but the engine will not turn over. The key is able to be removed from the tumble, but the tumbler itself will not turn back. Also, the gear shift is able to be moved between all the gears.

ANSWER: Hi Claire,
Have you solved the problem yet? Your question just appeared in the pool. Are you saying that the car is totally 'dead' electrically? If so, check the battery cable clamps to be sure they are tight. But be careful not to touch a wrench to any metal surface while you are tightening the + post clamp so you don't get burned. Write back and tell me how things stand.
Roland

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Roland,

I had the car towed, and the battery was replaced last Friday, almost exactly a week ago, before I received your answer. The car once again ran smoothly throughout the weekend. The last time I used it was mid-day Sunday. I did not use it from that time until today, Thursday. When I opened the door, I once again had no power and the car won't start. I will try your suggestion tomorrow, but is there any other advice you have?
Thanks so much!

Answer
You will recall that we exchanged q and a's earlier this month about your car. I am competing to be recognized as 'expert of the month' for November, and the voting ends Sunday afternoon. If you would consider giving me a vote, that would be most appreciated. Use the "Thank/rate" tab below where you will see "nomination?" and then change the 'no' to a 'yes' to give me that support. I hope things are well with you and your vehicle.
Roland

Hi Claire,
It sounds to me based upon the recent history, that rather than bad clamps you have an excessive current being drawn by the battery when the car is not in use. A small abount of current is needed to maintain the computer memories but that is all. Instead you have something running that is discharging the battery. My first suspicion is that the trunk light, the glove box light of the underhood light is "on" all the time which will drag down the battery. So take a look at those three locations, assuming that the battery still has enough power to run the lights, if not, then remove the battery and take it back to where it was bought and have it recharged, then look for a hidden light. If that doesn't prove to be the case, then you will want to have a volt-ohm-milliamp meter so that you can go searching for the stray current.
Until we figure out what is wrong, for example tonight, you will want to remove fuse #5 from the fuse box that is located to the left of your left leg when you are in the driver's seat, on what is called the "kick panel". That fuse is the only one that will provide current when the ignition switch is "off" so if you pull it out, that will keep the battery from discharging any further. It may, if pulled tonight, allow the battery to recover enough that it might start tomorrow (just a chance, however). Look on that kick panel for the 5-sided box, and in the row of fuses that runs across the top of the box there will be one that is separated from a group of 4 and a group of three on either side of it. That is the fuse to remove.
If it is not convenient to remove the battery, the other approach would be to buy a small battery charger, assuming that the car in near a 110V AC outlet, and recharge the battery at home.
Roland