QuestionI'll try to keep this as simple as short as possible.
1990 Chrysler Imperial 3.3L w/A/C
From what i understand about this car its had this problem 2 years ago before it war parked. I thought it may have been the anti-theft system from what they described.
First time i looked at it it started right up, drove fine. everything worked.
After driving it for a few miles it died on me. Didn't sound like the fuel pump was priming when i jog the ingnition. Thought it was the fuel pump. Tested the fuel pump. everythings fine. Tested the relay, all go there as well.
about a month later I decided to see if it would run. Sure enough started right up. After running for about 5-7 minutes, 2 minutes idle, then the rest of the time me holding the accelerator and running the engine at about 1800 rpms to get everything up to operating temp to make sure everything is sound. Ran fine, soon as i let off the gas it dies again and wont start. Checked all the usual suspects. Everything is a go. Fuel pressure is ok, not the best but still within factory specs. Spark, timing is right on the money.
granted i have no schooling for the automotive industry but im self taught, rebuild engines..etc and for the life of me cant figure out whats wrong. no trouble codes. All my troubleshooting has led me to a perfectly sound car that has a mind of its own.
My question is what could cause this? Bad capacitator in the computer? Bad ballast? I wasnt able to find one being that its DIS and none near the coil pack or crank sensor.
Is there a safty system that shuts off a specific engine management function if the fuel level is low? both times it has happened to me the fuel has been at about an 1/8 of a tank or a bit less.
I hope you can help out. I know your pretty busy so i understand if it takes some time. Thanks in advance.
Keep up the great work.
AnswerHi Patrick,
If the car was originally sold in California it will have an egr valve that may be sticking ajar, which will cause a too lean mixture to idle. If so, lubricate the valve stem where it enters the valve body with WD-40. Other than that I would wonder about a vacuum leak so check all the hoses connected to that, particularly the brake booster hose, but there are a miriad of others. Without a code, you pretty much have to look for mixture issues that the computer won't be able to detect. Thanks for the great history.
Roland
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