QuestionQUESTION: I was advised by a service advisor that I have a coolant leak at the gasket of my timing belt cover. As a result, he indicated that they would need to drop the transmission to repair this leak, which would be ~ 5.5 labor hours. Is this the correct method for repairing this problem? Thanks!
ANSWER: Hi Gregg,
This coolant leak at the timing belt cover is a bit mysterious to me and also what the transmission has to do with it is also a puzzle. It would help me to know which engine you have.
The timing belt or timing chain (depending upon which engine you have) is at the front of the engine, not the back end that mates with the transmission. So I wonder why the trans is involved at all. If you would ask again where exactly the leak is, and how the transmission is related to the timing belt/chain end of the engine would be good to have clarified. Is it a head gasket leak? or ? Do let me know what you learn and also tell me which engine you have.
Roland
PS If you would not avail yourself of the "private" option that would allow others in the future to review this problem. Thanks
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QUESTION: Thanks for your quick response, Roland. I have a 3.3L engine. I will follow your advice and try to get more details from the service dept.
AnswerHi Gregg,
The 3.3L timing chain cover does have a couple of coolant O-rings so there could be a leak of coolant there. There are 7 chain case cover screws, and so it might be worth checking to see that those are at the proper torque setting before starting on this repair. The torque setting is 20 foot-pounds. On the transmission, the manual says that only an inspection cover might have to be removed in order to remove the oil pan. So I would not base the repair on removing the transmission.
I would doubt it takes 5.5 hours to do the timing case cover job, but I don't have a time estimate. I can give you the list of steps if you want to try it yourself or go to another shop to have it done. But check out the 7 cover screws to see if a loose one of two may be the cause of the leak.
I can also xerox and postal mail you the pages from the manual that show the steps and figures of the locations of all the parts. It costs me 10 cents per side. If you would like these let me know, I will copy and send. Then after you get them you can send me back 42-cent stamps to cover the copy costs and postage.
Use the "thank/rate" tab to get back without having to wait for me to be 'available' for a question.
Roland
Here are the steps for removal, the install is more detailed and with some drawings that I would prefer to send by postal mail. I can do that for free if you would like as it is only a couple of pages.
Disconnect battery
Drain cooling system
Support engine and remove right engine mount
Raise on hoist, drain oil
Remove oil pan and oil pick-up; may have to remove inspection cover of trans.
Remove right wheel and inner splash shield
Remove accessory drive belt
Remove A/C compressor and set aside
Remove A/c compressor mounting bracket
Remove crank pulley/damper
Remove idler pulley for drive belt from engine bracket
Remove engine bracket
Remove cam sensor from chain case cover
Remove chain case cover.
The install is more detailed, 20 steps. There are 6 figures that show important details. But again, check the 7 fastener screws on the cover first. Two are toward the top (above the bulge)at approx 10 and 12 o'clock); 5 of them are below the bulge area, 3 on the back side, 2 on the front side (relative to the crank pulley as viewed from the front of the engine i.e. right side of the vehicle).
