Questionihave a 95 chrysler cirrus 2.5lxi.i was told by twoo repair guys that i need a ecm.what,s going on is two thing.the first thing is there,s aslight jerking/stubbling at a stop anjust idleing with the car in gear.but when you trun the a/c on it go,s away. the other guy put a scanner on it could,nt get the computer to conn with the scanner. for as reading for a code . help bruning to much fuel.
AnswerHi James,
I would try to get a fault code readout using your ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on and leave it on" doing that action in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light which remains "on" to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to be sure you get the same counts. If not do it again until you are sure of the counts. Then group the counts into pairs in the order they appeared to form the two-digit fault code numbers. The last number should be 55 which is the code for "end of readout". Then write back with the results or go to www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html for a code list. We can go on from there once we have the fault codes. The car was made in '95 which means it doesn't readout with today's OBD-II scanners so that is why your mechanic couldn't get a readout.
There are two other things to check: the egr valve and the throttle body throat and plate. One the egr:
The first thing I would do is check the mechanical function of the egr valve which is located along a pipe that runs from the left exhaust manifold (on the side of the engine facing the front of the car) to the intake manifold area (where the incoming air in the large rubber tube enters the throttle). That valve is metal and has a round fitting with a vacuum hose attached, mounted on the top of the valve, and the round part is attached to the main body of the valve by a sort of saddle. Inside the open saddle you will see a metal rod (with a slot) that connects the round top fitting to to the valve body. That rod is a stem on the valve and it is supposed to go in and out in response to the engine vacuum which varies with RPM and throttle opening (gas pedal position). Take a spray can of WD-40 or other penetrating lubricant and spray the stem where it enters the valve body and then use a regular screwdriver blade tip inserted in the slot to lever the valve in and out to try and free up its motion. Also check all the rubber vacuum hoses associated with the valve and a nearby vacuum solenoid valve. If the valve seems to open (against the action of a spring) and close firmly by the spring action when using the screwdriver blade to facilitate the motion, then you should be able to now start the engine. You can, once it is idling, check that the valve stem moves when you rev the engine from idle to 2500 rpm and back to idle.
On the throttle body:
Take off the fat air intake hose and find the throat of the throttle body. Open it by pressing on the lever that is operated by the gas pedal. Get a q-tip and some solvent and wipe away all the dirt on the sides of the throat and on the moveable throat plate. Clean both sides of the throat plate by opening it. And you will see a small hole on the side of the throat which is the idle air intake and that too need to be cleaned. So use the q-tip and solvent to clean that hole out.
You can get back to me without waiting for my to be "available". Use the "thank and rate" tab below to tell me what codes you go, using the comments section of that tab. I will get back to you.
Roland
Code 12, replaced egr still the same...
Hi James,
The 12 code is a common false one; it just means that the battery power to the computer was disconnected sometime in the past 50-100 key cycles such as taking of a battery cable clamp at some point. Have you done the throttle body cleaning as suggested?
Roland
