Chrysler Repair: 90 Lebaron starting/running problem, fuel pump relay, verification approach


Question
Last week my wife's Lebaron would not start, (no fuel). I pulled the fuel pump and found the black wire had broken off the external flange connector, resoldered and it ran great.  The other day she was heading up a hill and the speedometer/tach readings dropped to zero with many warning lights.  The vehicle stalled, it tries to start, if you pump it will almost start.  Is this an indication of a failed sensor or engine control computer?  Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This morning will check for fuel and spark. Your service is great.

Thank you...........Sandy

Answer
Hi Sandy,
Locating that fuel pump ground is very clever, congratulations!
On the current problem, it is unusual to lose the gauges unless the power supply to them is lost (or maybe another ground?) and the failure of the engine simultaneously leads me to look for a common possiblity.
One section of the ignition switch powers the gauges, the computer, the fuel pump relay. So I would check that possibility by testing the voltage source to fuses 14-16 which are also powered from that section. If that seems solid (giggle the key), then we go back to the spark/fuel verification approach (test for spark while cranking/listen for the fuel pump for a second when the ignition is turned to "run").
Maybe just before the spark test, I would try for fault codes via the check engine light: "on-off-on-off-on and leave on", doing that in 5 seconds or less elased time. Then notice the light to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat for accuracy. Then group the counts in pairs to form the two-digit fault code numbers. Let me know what they are and we'll go from there. Or go to www.allpar.com./fix/codes.html for a fault code list. You can use the 'thank and rate' tab to get back quickly if I am unavailable, using the comment section.
One last possibility is that your egr valve is stuck slightly ajar so check the stem to make sure it moves freely and the spring closes it firmly to a dead stop. If not, lubricate the stem where it enters the valve body with WD-40. Such a condition will cause hard starting and also could have cause the stall during a hill climb.
Roland

Follow-up: Fault code is (1-2-5-5)which indicates the battey was disconnected when I repaired the fuel pump gnd lead. The next morning the car started up without any issues. Now I suspect an ignition module that might be sensitive to temperature. It was a hot day when the car died with my wife. I assume the ignition module in the distributer controls functions in the engine computer and if flakey with hot temperatures might be the cause? Any additional comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again...........Sandy

Hi Sandy,
Thanks for the kind remarks.
On the temp issue, sure the sensor(s) in the distributor can begin to fail with a rise in temperature, in fact that is usually the first sign: failure when hot, recover in a few minutes of sitting.
But I would have expected to see an 11 or a 54 code if that were the explanation for your wife's recent stall. If the gauges really all went out together even though the car was moving I would believe that the power from the switch may have been absent. So keep that as a possibility.
Roland