QuestionQUESTION: hellow ronald finston i have a 1996 chrsler sebring lxi. i have done numerious of things to try and get this car to start but it wont! i have change crank sensor,distributor,check voltage to dis.,all fuses,fuel injectors to see if pcm is working and still no start there is no electrical current coming out of dis. please help,the car has new timing belt at 100k an it has 142k now.when this started was as if it would not gettting fuel then it shoot of and that was the end of the car starting.
ANSWER: Hi Angel,
Do you hear the fuel pump run for about 1 second when you first turn the ignition key to the "run" position? That would be a test of the fuel pump.
Have you checked fuses #8 and #10 in the fuse box that is under the hood? They are both needed to make the fuel pump operate.
When you say "there is not electrical current coming out of the distributor" do you mean there is no spark? Or are you speaking of the voltage pulsing from the cam shaft sensor which is in the distributor is not coming out?
Because this is a '96 vehicle you should be able to get the 'fault codes', which would give a clue as to what is wrong, by using your ignition key. Turn the key "on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. By "on" I mean the normal "run" position of the key.
Then watch the check engine light to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause, then repeat to be sure the count is accurate. Then group the numbers of flashes into pairs in the order of appearance. The last pair of flashes should be "55". That is because "55" is the code for "end of readout". Do this key test and write back with the two-digit numbers (or the flash counts in order) that you find and we'll see if that helps solve this one.
There are other tests we can try but please answer my questions and give the counts first.
To get back to me use the "thank and rate" tab where there is a space for 'comments'. I will get your answer quickly that way.
Roland
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QUESTION: hey ronald i did that test an according to my chilton it says its the trans axle park/neutral switch failure? but that has nothing to do with not having any spark i also checked with an ohm meter for the asd relay an it does not read nothing all fuses are good
ANSWER: Hi Angel,
What is the number of the code? Do you mean it is code 37? That was the only one you got beside a 55? And please, tell me the answers to my previous questions.
Try jumping across the socket pins of the ASD relay socket from the far left to the far right pin and listen for the fuel pump to run continuously or not. If it does, try to start it.
Roland
PS Also check fuse #5 in the power box under the hood. which powers the ASD relay.
PPS The 37 may be a misread of the flashes. 3 may actually be 1-2 which is a common code that is 12 and means the battery has been disconnected recently. 7 could 1-6, 2-5,3-4, 4-3, 5-3 or 6-1. So I would suggest you look again.
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QUESTION: yes ronald i never got a 55 code only a 37 the fuel pump does come on for 2 seconds an i did the jump still no start although i did try to ohm the asd wire an no reading at all so i guess my computer is or need to be replaced
AnswerHi Angel,
What do you mean by "ohm the asd wire and no reading at all"? Which wire? and by "no reading" do you mean 0 ohms or infinite ohms? I would not jump to the conclusion that you need a new computer.
I have been helping another 2.5L V-6 owner, Magnus, in Sweden with the same no start problem. Here is what we have been discussing:
"I have a big problem with my Chrysler.
While driving the engine stalled.
No fuel, and no spark. Have done the testing of the distributor as you described earlier in another case and it seems to be ok.
I don't get any Check Enginecodes.
The one-cable socket on the distributor gives 12,6 volt for about 1 sec when the key is turned to run. The fuelpump gives fuel at this time, but when I turn the key for cranking the engine the voltage drops to 0 volt.
The ASD-relay seems to be ok to, because I´ve change it whit a similar relay, and no difference.
Can it be the Cranksensor??
I´m from Sweden and it isn't offend I write English like this, but I hope You think its ok.
Please help Me....
ANSWER: Hi Magnus,
It could either be the crank or the cam sensor. I am surprised that there are no codes, not even a 55 which means "end of readout"? I believe that the '95 was still supposed to give codes via the check engine light (on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less with the ignition key). So try one more time.
The problem is probably one or the other of those sensors. The "cam" is in the dirstributor, the crank is mounted on the back side of the engine near the seam between the engine and trans. You could try to see if both of them are pulsing between 5V and 0.3V when you turn it over by hand using a socket on the end of the crank pulley's bolt and of course with the ignition "0n". You can't sense it with a DC voltmeter if it is cranked with the starter motor, pulsing is too fast. Measure between the Black/light blue wire and the gray/black wire (crank) and between the same B/lb and the tan/yellow (cam) for this voltage pulsing check-out.
The cam sensor is evidentally not sold separately, just an entire new distributor! But verify that is the case if the cam sensor fails.
Also check the the voltage on the third wire of both sensors orange/white and any nearby ground is 8V as that could also be a cause for loss of signal. Use fine pins inserted through the insulation to check the voltages.
Let me know what you learn, please.
Your English is better than my Sweedish!
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi, again!
Now I have done what You told me.
And this is the result.
When I chech for voltage beetwen black/light blue I get a straigt volage of 5 volt even if I chrank the engine as You discribed.
On the orange and white cable I dont get any volts at all.
It´s the same on crank- and cam-sensor.
What can be wrong?
Magnus
ANSWER: Hi Magnus,
On the lack of 8 volts on the orange/white, that may be because it is a voltage source that is independent of the chassis ground. So that was my error. Check again when you have the ignition in the "run" position, only this time measure between the orange/white and the black/light blue. If you don't get 8V then that supply circuit in the computer is out of order (or the battery voltage supply to the computer is lacking:check for 12V on pins 20 and 46 with the igntion in the "run" position at the engine computer plugs).
It is doubtful that both sensors would fail at the same time to produce pulses, unless you don't have the 8 volt supply for both of them.
Roland
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QUESTION: Hi again!
Still have some problem.
I have measured between the orange/white and the black/light blue and dont get any signal at all. Same on bothe sensors.
When I measure between pin 20 and groud and between pin 46 and ground I get a 12 volt signal.
On the sensors I must have 1 cable that feeds the sensors whit 12 volt. one cable to groud and one returning to the computer. Is tha correct?
I´m still comfused abot the one-cable socket on the distributor. Ont that cable I got a 12 volt signal when I turn the key to run. The fuelpump is running for 1 sec. When I turn the key to crank the enging the voltage drops to 0.
Can that be som kind of imobilizer or crash-sensor disturbing?
Magnus
Answer: Hi Magnus,
About the one-cable socket on the distributor, yes the failure of the 12V that you notice when cranking is a crash-safety behavior.
The 12V is cut off by the computer (by opening the ASD relay) when the signals from the cam and crank sensors stop (implying the engine is not turning over anymore) and thus this prevents fuel from running, the spark, and the oxygen, sensors all of which are a fire hazard potential after a crash.
I believe that you are not getting signals from the sensors because the 8V supply to them (not 12V) on the orange/white wire is absent. The black/light blue is a sensor reference ground wire, and the third wires are the signal wires that tell the computer that the engine is rotating and exactly where it is in the cycle. The orange/white wire derives its voltage from pin 44 of the computer. So I would check that point for 8V. The wire leaves pin 44 and goes thru a black 10-wire disconnect just behind the power box under the hood, so you could open that joint and check for 8V volts there on pin 5 (and while you have it disconnected check that the downstream side of the wire is not grounded, which is another reason you may have lost the 8V to the sensors). Or you can pull the 40-pin plug that has pin 44, at the computer, and check that the orange/white wire isn't grounded.
Either the computer is not putting out the 8V at pin 44 or the orange/white wire is shorted to ground. If it is shorted to ground then either a wire is shorted or one of the sensors (cam,crank) that it supplies is shorted to ground. You could disconnect the sensor wires and observe if the short vanishes.
Once you restore the 8V supply to both sensors I think you will get signals and the engine will start. Please let me know what happens."
May I suggest that you try some of the tests that I suggested to Magnus?
Roland
