QuestionQUESTION: Hello Roland, I´m here again with the same problem in my CIRRUS.
Look: My car dies while is running. About 10 Min, I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor, but when i meassure this sensor it meassure 600 Ohms when it´s hot and 6000 ohms when its cool, so i wonder if that´s ok o or not?...I buy it in Autozone, it´s NEW. And JUST i recived a PCM for my car, it´s programmed with my VIN, and it comes from MIAMI USA, so i supposed my PCM it´s completely ok...4 HOURS AGO my car Dies again: When my car begin to fail, the tachometer moves slowly with littles jumps down and up, like my car was drown, and keeping going until my car dies. The jumps of the tachometer become bigger when the car fails more.
2. The "CHECK ENGINE" ligth, start to flash, and is flashing until my car dies.
I have OBSERVED something : This morning While my car was failing i disconnect the IAT sensor and the car established, before this i eliminate the EGR VALVE............YESTERDAY i did the same thing(tHIS TIME the EGR VALVE and the IAT sensor was connected) While MY CAR was failing i Disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor, and the car ESTABLISHED...So i wonder if there is a ploblem with a Vaccum or something...I need help. What else could be that problem :(...I don´t know what to do....And there is no codes.
ANSWER: Hi Brian,
Did you check the IAT resistance when cold and when hot? It should be responding similarly as the engine coolant sensor, which appears to be working based upon your ohm reading.
All the experimentation with disconnecting that you are doing is difficult to interpret because eash one affect the engine differently.
What about the O2 (oxygen) sensor? That may be faulty based upon the OBD-II readout that you did. That sensor is not called into service until the engine warms up, so that could explain the delay in this problem until 10 minutes or so. That would be worth replacing, I would believe.
Are you still trying for fault codes using the key/check engine light and the OBD-II reader? Do you at least get a 55 code?
Roland
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Hi Roland, i came for your help again...Look my car does not dies any more, but still is something wrong with it
I did this things:
1. Eliminate EGR Valve, i don´t replaced, i just Eliminate it, i make the car don´t use it any more.
2. I changed the MAP sensor.......And then my car doesn´t dies any more
BUT!! I have notice when i go more than 100 Km/h my car start to fail just the same way: The tachometer star to move up and down, and seems the car is drowned...So what do you think is happend? it´s something wrong with the TPS?, or Speed Sensor?, or The transmision? or maybe just need change spark plugs?. I hope you can help me with this....I don´t get any fault codes, but i don´t let my car fail until died, i go slowly when start to fail...
I don´t check the 02 sensor....Another thing is my car doesn´t died even warms up, i have check that.
Thanks Roland
AnswerHi Brian,
If the plugs are fouled, then either it is carbon due to too rich a mixture, or if way too lean also you can get carbon from no combustion, so your mixture must be "off". So you changed the rear plugs too? That is a bigger job to the the rear cylinders and the manifold may have not been closed up tightly.
You might try checking for a possible intake manifold leak on the rear side of the manifold using some spray starter fluid in a can. But you must only use very small squirts so as to not start a fire. You could have the engine idling, then try a very brief squirt of starer fluid at spaced points around the edge of the manifold and listen for any change in the idle speed. If you find a place that the idle changes right after a small squirt then that would where there is a small air leak. You may find nothing, but at least you could be sure you don't have a manifold leak which would affect the mixture. It has to be something that is not monitored by the pcm, like manifold leak, or a dirty throttle body plate, or maybe a leaky injector. You could check the plugs on cylinders 2,4,6, to see if they are equally dirty or not, and also check the compression on those cylinder when the engine has been warmed up. They are easier to get too than the rear bank of cylinders and maybe you would find an imbalance that would be a possible clue.
Roland
Hi Brian,
If you mean that you simply disconnected the wires or the vacuum lines to the EGR valve, then that is probably not the proper solution. It should close all the way by itself as I explained earlier when the engine is shut off. If you remove it from the system it could throw things off when you are at highway speeds.
How long has it been since you changed the plugs? They can go up to 100,000 miles, but if you are close to that, then I would consider changing them. You can check the TPS but there would likely be a code if it were bad.
I doubt it is the transmission or speed sensor. ] I asked you how you are trying to get the codes? If by the check engine light, are you getting only the 55 code, and are you getting the 55 code? Get a free readout at an Autozone parts store for the current codes. I don't have the entire history, but didn't you get an O2 code? So if that is still true, then you would be wise to replace the O2 sensor.
Roland
