Chrysler Repair: 1996 Chrysler Sebring: no start, chrysler sebring convertible, 1996 chrysler sebring convertible

Question
QUESTION: My 1996 Chrysler Sebring convertible is stuck in 2nd gear. I disconnected the battery for about 5 min and reconnected the battery. The car then switched gears normally for about 4 to 5 miles then stuck back in 2nd gear. Two days later I was driving down the road and it spit and sputtered and died. It tries to turn over but no fire from the plug wires. The lady I bought the car off of replaced the distributor, spark plugs, wires, and fuel pump in Nov of 2007. In Jan of 2008 she had to replace the distributor again. So, now May of 2008 I replaced the distributor, no fire, replaced crank sensor, no fire and made sure fuel was getting through the fuel line by disconnecting it from the top of the engine and turning the key. I also have checked the relays and they are good. The one relay is making a clicking noise,like it should, when attempting to start. PLEASE HELP. I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you
Johnny


ANSWER: Hi Johnny,
I would try the ignition key to get a fault code readout from the engine control module:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapsed time. Then watch the check engine light, which remains "on", to begin to flash, pause, flash, etc.  Count the number of flashes before each pause. Then repeat to verify an accurate count. Then group the counts in pairs in the order of appearance to form the two digit fault codes. The last code will always be 55 because that is the code for "end of readout". Other codes can be identified by going to www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html  or write back and tell me the numbers and we'll go from there.  Have you checked the distributor rotor to make sure it isn't 'open'? Have you inspected the plugs at the distributor and inspected the wires for possible damage?
The trans getting stuck in 2nd gear is called limp-in mode. There will be a code stored in the trans controller to tell us why that is. You can get a free code readout at an Autozone parts store or for around $40 at an independent shop. Get the 4-digit fault code numbers, ask what they mean, and what needs to be done to fix. Then we can compare that to the manual for the specfic codes. The code readout is done from a multipin plug that is under the dash by the steering wheel.
Roland


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QUESTION: Before the car died on me. I had taken it to Autozone to get codes for the shifting problem that I was having and no codes.Then when it died on me, I attempted to get a fault code readout using the ignition key and no codes. I did check the plugs when I replaced the distributor. Thank you very much and any other tips will be greatly apreciated.

ANSWER: When you say no codes using the ignition key, did you get a 55 code? Do you move the key back and forth fast enough to do it in 5 seconds or less? You should always get a code 55. Or did the light not flash at all?
On the Autozone readout, did they not find any codes at all? The limp-in mode almost by definition requires that there be a code in the controller memory because that mode is only provoked by the controller's detection of a fault which threatens to damage the transmission.
I am hard-pressed to tell you what to do other than to check that you are getting 12V on the single wire of the 2-wire plug at the distributor while you are cranking it.
So let me know about the above questions.
Roland


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I have tried a few times and I do not get any codes at all. Is it possible that the ECU is dead? If the ECU is dead, will the car fire or even send any codes, including 55? I haven't checked the wire at the distributor but I will give it a try also. Thank you

Answer
Hi Tony,
If the check engine light stays "on" but you get no codes whatsoever then it is possible that the ecu is not working as it should. It would be good to check that all the wires from the three ecu engine control and other engine circuit grounds that are located together at a bolt on the left strut tower are shiny and tightly making a good contact to the body metal at that point. If there is a flaky ground it could cause a problem. if the check engine light doesn't light at all, then you need to check out that bulb.
Roland