Questionabs light will come on and stay on, but only after the car has warmed-up...sometimes the brake light will come on also. the brakes have been checked out and i'm told they are ok. car is due for Virginia state inspection this month and i don't know if it will pass. any suggestions?
AnswerHi Sharon,
The abs light is an indication that the abs control module has noticed a fault and thus set a code number in its memory that says what it thinks is wrong. The connector for the abs module to be analyzed is above the hood release and slightly forward at the interface between the underside of the dash and the side panel. A good brake shop will be able to read it out for that code.
The other light, the normal brake light, is telling you that there is an inbalance in the pressure level generated by stepping on the brakes between the several lines that share the brake fluid that goes to the four wheels. That is indicative of a leak in one of the lines, either at a wheel cylinder or along the metal/rubber lines. It also may be the case that one of the rubber hoses has deteriorated in its center lumen which could impede the flow of fluid and that too would likely cause the light.
Again, that can be checked by a competent brake shop, visually, and by checking for a 'dragging' brake.
I suspect if the light(s) are on you won't pass. But in any case I would go beyond the opinion that everything is OK. The abs light itself is not the main issue, but rather the other brake light. The abs is fail-safe, but not the rest of the brake system.
Roland
PS Thanks for the kind evaluation. This could be something fairly easy, like a leak wheel cylinder or a brake hose that is worn out. The important thing is to go to a competent and ideally referenced (recommended) brake shop and to ask them to identify the specific issue. It the budget is limited then just authorize the specific repair and avoid authorizing premature maintenance on the entire system (like replacing all the brake pads, rotors, etc. that may be quite expensive and not required at this time. That is what often happens at franchise-type brake/muffler shops where the service writer will often overstate the situation and get you to buy into something beyond what is needed. This is likely to be something specific to one wheel's brake line or hydraulic cylinder. Of course if the brakes have not been evaluated and many miles of stop and go driving have occured it could be you need such a large job. So inquire carefully about the % of linings that remain before accepting any grandiose repair job. If you or a relative can remove front and a rear wheel to inspect the lining, that would be another way to approach that issue. Also, take a look at the inner side side wall of all four tires to see if you see any wetness/drip lines and that would tell you which wheel is the issue if you have a wheel cylinder leak.
